did a search but no help found..tuning ?

[kirkwhitehead]

RH 54#@28" longbow not cut to center. CX 4560(Gander mt. brand Whitetails) cut to 29.5. I draw 27.5" arrows have standard inserts with 125gr points.

all shooting done from 10-15 yards into a buckmaster bag target.

fletched arrows are 3 5" parabolic rw feathers.

my bareshafts hit the spot I want with either a straight shaft or nock right just a tad. less than 2".
my feathered shafts hit the same spot but with nock right just a tad, less than 2". When shooting bare/fletched/bare/fletched.... all group inside 5" circle but bare nock lean right,fletched nocks lean left.

So I am under or over spined but short drwing the bow or over drawing the bow yields the same results.

I could cut some off but don't have a tool for that so I wanted to make sure that was the thing to do before I drop the cash on a dremel tool.

also I just ordered some AD trad lites @29.5" will I find the same issue with them or are they spined differently than these CX shafts?

thanks,
kirk

BTW, I have read all the tuning charts online but cannot find my situation. also 125 is the heaviest points I have until my package gets here from 3 rivers.

[Overspined]

nock right are stiff. carbons can be very touchy to get spined correctly for each bow set-up, so be patient. Usually, a 4560 shaft will actually spine at the top end, so 60#. This is probably ok as long as your point weight goes up quite a bit. probably around 150 or 190 would perform better. you really want those bare shafts to fly with no left/right wobble before adding fletching. You may have to start with your desired point weight and a longer shaft, if it is still right, then go to a heavier point. If they are weak, then you can cut them an inch and try again, and so on. remember, shorter is stiffer, and a heavier point will make the spine seem softer. pay close attention that the arrow is not kicking one way, then quickly the other. good luck....I got sick of carbons and went back to wood, soooo much easier.

[L82HUNT]

Just what I have found that bag type targets are not real good for bare shaft tuning.  They tend to give false readings.  See if you can get a block style target they work better for your testing.  Sorry cant give any info on your arrows.

[kirkwhitehead]

I also thought maybe the nocks were too tight so hot water and spread them a bit, same results. I too was thinking about the bag, that is why I put it on the list. It doesn't matter which side I shoot or which dot I shoot I still get the same results.

so if they are stiff bare, adding feathers should make them stiffer right? but nock left is a sign of weak spine right?

kirk

[R H Clark]

First off if you can stay inside a 5" circle at 15-20 yards with a bareshaft you are probably close enough not to worry any more.Bareshafting is helpful when someone doesn't have a clue about spine.I've seen guys shooting arrows that are so bad that a bareshaft would turn sideways at 10 yards.Thoes are the guys that bareshafting will help the most.

Second ,if you want a,"PERFECT",tuned bareshaft with a carbon,you CAN NOT cut to a certin length.You need to start with a full length shaft and tune from there.

The ideal shaft to start with would be one that has some room to cut.It would however at the same time be close enough in spine that you could see a difference when you add or take weight away.

If you can add weight and make a shaft show weak or take weight away and make it show stiff you "KNOW" you aren't getting a false reading from the shaft striking the shelf.This can be a big problem and cause a lot of folks to shoot a too stiff shaft thinking it is weak or the other way around.

The thing to do is get a shaft showing a little weak and trim very small ammounts untill it is perfect.Keep in mind that the weight of feathers will stiffen a little.

For me tuning a bow is like sighting a rifle.I start out up close just to make sure I'm close enough to be on papper.Then I move back to thirty or even forty yards.A too weak shaft will shoot right and a too stiff shaft left, for a right hand shooter.Keep in mind though that just like rifle shooting you have to be able to shoot a tight group at your chosen distance to be able to tell if your bareshaft is off.Only bareshaft as far as you can shoot a tight feathered arrow group.Then the farther you move back ,the farther an untuned bareshaft will be from your feathered group.

[Smallwood]

try it at 20 yards, it will really show you what your arrows are doing, because they have a little more flight time to the target. this allows them to pick up some wind resistance on the side of the shaft and plane off to the left or right or fly straight. I think you will find that yours are stiff, and plane off to your left for a righty. bump up to a 200 or 250 grn point and try it, i think youll find they will fly really straight with the heavier weight.

[kirkwhitehead]

thanks guys, I bought 1 4560 this morning @ 29" and basicly get the same results. I guess I will just wait for my package from 3 rivers to get some 145 and 160 points.

thanks guys

kirk