Robert,
You'll also notice that the tip section is thicker than the rest of the broadhead. That's because excess braze has bled out and deposited on both sides of the tip during the lamination process. You'll need to remove the excess braze before sharpening the tip. You can do this with a file.
As soon as you get through the paint, you'll see that the metal beneath it is brass, not steel. File the tip flat until you remove all the brass and can see clean steel.
Next you can sharpen the tanto by either double beveling the tip's cutting edges or single beveling them. If you single bevel the tanto be sure to file from the unbeveled side of each blade. I know this can be confusing when written out instead of seeing it but I'll try...
Grizzlies are right hand beveled. That means when you lay the broadhead on a table with the tip pointed away from you the visible bevel is on the right hand blade.
Now when the tanto tip is sharpened with a single bevel style, the tip's bevel should be visible on the left hand side.
In other words, the main blade is beveled from the top down but, the tanto tip is beveled from the bottom up.
I asked Ed about this about a month ago and he had concluded that there did not appear to be a significant performance advantage to either of the above tanto sharpening methods.
There is a third (less desirable) way to sharpen the tanto: That is to single bevel the tanto from the same side as the main blade bevel. Ed said that this configuration was much more likely to skip off of bone on angular shots than either of the first two methods.
Hope that didn't add to the confusion. :confused:
Ron