Howatt Hunter

[osiristheclown]

Hello all!

I'm new to this forum and this is my first post here. I've recently been given a Howatt Hunter 62", 55#@28" and need some advice. I am drawing right at 28", determined by a couple friends who are traditional hunters and shooters. They both suggested aluminum shafts to start with for durability, but neither could suggest a shaft to start with. I have a bunch of 2117 and 2314 shafts fletched with 5" feathers. Some have shield cut, some parabolic, both right and left helical. These are cut to 29.5", given to me by another friend who went to a wheel bow. Are these something I can use with this bow? The closest shop (30miles away) told me he could set me right up for a compound bow, but offered to make me up some carbons that "might" work out. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you.

[Shooty1]

If you're new, those 2117s are close enough to get you started and working on form until you have a chance to get arrows of closer spine. With some heavier points, say 145, 175, or 200, you might even get those 2117s to work fine.

 http://www.arrowsbykelly.com/Spine_Charts.html

[osiristheclown]

OK, so am I following you that the 2117 are too stiff spined? Can you suggest a shaft that would get me in the ballpark? I have access to a dozen 2117 Legacy arrows that are uncut if I want them also. Ideally, I would like to come up with something I can shoot all year and then hunt with next year. A buddy has offered me all his 125gr broadheads for free, so I assume practice with 125gr field points would be logical if I go that route? Thank you for the info.

[Rick P]

Not a aluminum arrow shooter but I think you'll find they fly better with a heavier tip. My Howatt loves 5575 goldtips with a 150gr head. I hunt and practice with the same weight head so I don't have too shift my aim point in the field.

[osiristheclown]

I'm not completely new to archery, used to shoot a compound some years ago. I have been shooting an old Root Range Master 30#@28", 66" recurve with some arrows I got with the bow. I can shoot this one well, but 40# is minimum for CT.

[WoodsyDave]

I shoot a Howat Hunter 50# @ 28" and I use 2114 shafts cut to 28 1/2". They shoot like darts. But, I shoot a 142gr broadhead.

If you are going to experiment with the 2117 shafts, I suggest you start with them long and shoot. If the spline is too weak, the arrow should come off the bow to the left, if you are a right handed shooter. You can take 1/2" off the shaft and re-shoot until it hits where you are looking. Each 1/2" will stiffen the spline of the arrow s significant amount. Or, just get the arrow chart from Easton for longbow or recurve for your drawlength, bow weight and tip weight.  It will give you the proper arrow to shoot, then you can fine tune with 1/2" length adjustments.

That's what I do anyway...

[osiristheclown]

OK, now I'm totally confused! The Easton chart on their website doesn't agree with what the chart on the box of 2117 Legacy's says, and the site for arrowsbykelly is completely different. Unless I'm reading all these wrong, the 2314 should work at their current 29.5" using 125gr points?

[RLA]

Dave good to see you on here. Have you seen the big buck again?

[outbackbowhunter]

Originally posted by osiristheclown:
OK, now I'm totally confused! The Easton chart on their website doesn't agree with what the chart on the box of 2117 Legacy's says, and the site for arrowsbykelly is completely different. Unless I'm reading all these wrong, the 2314 should work at their current 29.5" using 125gr points?

The Easton charts are a guide only, they will get you close, but difference in bow performance and personal shooting style will determine your personal best choice in shaft size.

A too limber or too soft spine will place your arrows to the right, if you are a right handed archer.

Arrows that hit left are too stiff in spine.

I would try the 2117 with a 125 point weight, but cut the arrow down to 29".

If they seem underspined, a set of cat whisker string silencers will probably help.

The Easton charts are set up for high performance recurves and fast flight string materials, and personally I have found them to be a little conservative to the stiff side of arow spine.

[SCATTERSHOT]

before you go buying a lot of shafts to experiment with, get some 145 grain points for those 2117s and see how it goes. My guess is that if you leave them at 29.5", you'll be pretty close.

Good luck!

[nutmeg]

Think about trying 2018 aluminums.(nut)

[Outwest]

I have a Howatt Hunter 55# at 28 and 2117's 30 inches with 125 gr. points work real well.

John

[Bowhuntah]

I have a Howatt Mamba 55# @ 28 and I am experimenting with different arrows right now. So far the bow really likes GT Trads 55-75 cut to 29 with 150 up front. I have been trying the Legacy 2117s with 200 up front and they just seem to fly strange whatever I cut them to. The nock seems to kick up and then straighten out?

[Predator1]

I have a Howatt Hunter 55@28. You can shoot the 2117's if your just getting started and want to shoot but they will be stiff IMO. Also, on aluminums I don't like shooting real heavy tips to weaken the spine. 145-175 gr tips is as heavy as I would go. If its take more to weaken the shaft get a weaker shaft. Now carbons is another game but forget that right now. Also, the 2314's are too stiff.
 I would look at some 2016's myself. Those should be right in the ball park. Start long with the point weight you want to shoot and trim 1/2" off until you start getting good flight and hitting where your looking.
But first, just have fun with the bow and learn to shott it with good form.

[Shleprock]

2016 29-30" 145gr 4-5" helical

[Smallwood]

I just ran your #s thru the dynamic spine calculator, and the 29.5 2117s should be ok , just slightly stiff with a 125grn point.
You might try some 150 grn points to see how much difference if any there is.
Especially if your starting out, try to use what you already have and get it setup as close as you can. Shoot it for a year, and next year, you'll know if you want to change something,like going to a carbon arrow.
besides, a dozen 150grn points only cost a couple of dollars, compared to a dozen arrows.
so try the cheap fixes first, and avoid future headaches    

[Smallwood]