I have become a HUGE fan of the National Geograpic topo map series. You can customize them to your liking, edit, mark trails, routes etc.
This mapping software also is designed to work with the Megellan Triton series GPS units - so you can upload all of your edits onto the unit!
The other source I've had excellent results with is mytopo.com - you can make and customize your own personal map, on the scale you desire and there are several options on how to have it printed (i.e. waterproof paper, folded, laminated, etc.). I have 3 or 4 maps from them and been happy with all of them.
One more thing - you may have already checked into this, but its worth repeating - don't overlook Google Earth - some of the areas are more up to date than the rest, but can lead to excellent ideas looking at your area like an aerial photo. Best of all - its FREE. :D