Spine so weak it shows stiff??

[kevgsp]

When bareshafting is this possible?

Carbon arrows- spine is .412

R/D longbow 58lbs cut close to center.

32.5" shaft 300grain on the tip, point of impact is good at 20 yards.

Same shaft with 175 on the tip flew so far right at 20 yrds it missed the target 3 times.

Yes,I am right handed.

Am I getting so much paradox that the shaft is hitting the shelf?


Tried so many tip weight configurations and lengths, started to get tired/fustrated and I had to walk away.

Also do I HAVE to hold the bow verical when bareshafting..it is so unnatural for me I don't trust my aiming that way.

[Otto]

Kevin

With the 300 gr. tip...does it impact the target nock left or nock right?

[vermonster13]

If it flew right, it is showing weak.

[wtpops]

32.5" shaft .412 deflection 300 grains up front 58# is way week.
 I would try a minimum of .350 and you will more than likly be at .300

I shoot 58#, 31.75", .300, 225gn up front

I have a 30" draw (when i stop there)

You might be able to get a way with a .350 with 125 to 150 up front.

I am asuming you have a long draw and not able to cut much arrow off.

[kevgsp]

Otto, sometimes a little either way, nothing consistant, I've been told to ignore nock position.

vermontster, if the 175 tip is weak how is the 300 tip on target. It should be way way right?? no?

seems like I am getting reverse results.

When fletched I am getting shelf contact in almost all configurations, there is a scuff on the arrow wrap.  As I add tip weight the scuff is closer to front of the arrow, less tip weight the scuff moves back and seems lighter.
 
I am baffled

Think I need a cocktail and start fresh in the morning.

[kevgsp]

wtpops,

I have some 6075 cx I will try tomorrow.

I draw 29"

[vermonster13]

Try the 300s from back farther.

[mooseman76]

shoot it with a 125 or 100 grain head and see what happens...Mike

[wtpops]

Carbons react fast to lenght adjustment. With a 29" draw you can cut the arrow down to 30" and see what happens. A .412 at 30" will have a much better chanch of tunning. If you try this and want to keep 300 gn up front only cut 1/2" off at a time, if you get to 30" and still week then start droping in point weight 25 grains at a time. If you get to a point weight that you think is to light and the arrow is still to week then its time to go to a .350 or stiffer.

[osiristheclown]

With that much weight up front at that arrow length using that spine you are way too weak. Carbons will stiffen up quick to cutting just a little. You say you tried all configurations, that is probably the biggest problem. You need to pick a weight and stick to it, you will chase your tail all week if you start changing more than one factor at a time. The shelf contact is probably the shaft slapping it because it's so weak, or your nock point is way off. If you always cant the bow you should be doing the same when tuning, no point in getting it set up for the way you don't shoot it. I would decide on a weight first, then I would cut 1 shaft to 31.5" and work from there. Change only one factor at a time.

[Soilarch]

Newb question...and idea:

175 shows weak
300 shows "on"

That extra 125gr. may be close to a 25% jump in total arrow weight (more likely it's a little less than 20%).

Could that slow the arrow/bow down enough that it's "dynamic" spine increases?  That might be bad physics but the you putting the same amount of energy "in" the arrow over a longer period of time so...............


I agree, pick a weight, maybe two, for a couple days. Do it like the eye-doctor does.  "Better one, Better two...one....two?"  After a couple days take the better one and pair it with a new new weight.   That should at least get you in the ballpark.

[O.L. Adcock]

I assume the 300's are grouping with identical fletched shafts?....If so, that's correct...We KNOW if we go to a lighter point, arrows behave stiffer...weak shafts will group right...Overly weak shafts will scatter with no pattern. Stiff shafts will group left..Overly stiff shafts the tail end will hit the shelf/bow and group right..Sounds like what's happening here.

"Also do I HAVE to hold the bow verical when bareshafting"

No....Tuned shafts go where you point them no matter bow cant. If you cant 20 degrees or whatever it'll twist the results 20 degrees. as long as you know that it's no big deal...O.L.