need some help from some wood arrow shooters.

[Brack Shooter 32]

Looking to begin shooting some wood arrows. I  have always shot aluminum or carbon and want to try out wood. I have several questions that I am hoping someone out there can answer.

1)Spine...I currently shoot a 52# recurve at 28 inches. What spine would be a good starting point? I am thinking 60-65, does that sound right? I also want to be able to shoot a 160 grain point (love those big snuffers    )

2)I prefer to bareshaft tune my arrows. Would I be able to use the arrow saw (Cabelas 5000 rpm saw) I currently use to cut my carbons or would this not work? I know I would need to taper the tip end after each cut and re-apply the point.

3)Can I still use the fletch tape to apply my feathers? Will this adhere to the finish of the wood arrows or would I need to go with Duco?

I think I got all my questions out if any more pop up I will make sure to post them.

Thanks !!

[Brack Shooter 32]

Couple of add on's. I draw a true 28 and my finished arrows are 29.25 inches long.

[fillmorehd]

Welcome to shooting wooden arrows.  First question that spine is correct if you are shooting 125 grain points.  I would go one and possibly two spines up.  By the way that arrow shhots well from my 52# Assenheimer recurve. The more weight in the front the more it will brake the spine.  If you are only shooting a 28 inch arrow go with a 65-60 spine,

2 I cut my cedars all the time on one of those saws.  It will not cut all the way through but will cut it deep enough that you can snap it off and then grind off the burr on the side of the blade.

3 I use fletch tape all the time with either gasket laquer or bohning stuff.

Feel free to pm if you have more questions.  Good luck

[fillmorehd]

Mis typed the spine in the answer to question 1  should be 60-69 spine.

[Bjorn]

You'll need more spine-especially if using modern string like D97 65-70 would be a good start, and you can always leave them a bit longer.
Don't get hung up on 29.25".
It does not take much to cut softwoods but they can splinter; you may want a different blade; but try it on any piece of shaft or dowel you have handy.
Fletchtape is fine.
Get a tuner kit of shafts from raptorarchery.com

[fillmorehd]

Jesse your mail box is full.  The answer to your question.  Regardless of your draw length try to end up with the shaft about 3/4 inch longer.  If you shoot a 29 inch arrow try 70-75 spine.  those snuffers seem to take more spine I can send you a few of all three spines if you want to try them.

[Brack Shooter 32]

Terry I pm'd you. Cleaned out my mailbox also...

[Orion]

I think 60-65# would probably work for you, however, most center shot recurves will shoot spines much heavier.  If possible, try some 60-65#ers.  If you have to buy sight unseen, add 5-10# as others have recommended.  Good luck.

[aromakr]

You know I'm amaized at all the advice your getting and  they don't even know how deep your shelf is cut. That is a major factor in determining spine for any arrow. I would not suggest bareshaft testing wood arrows, just calculate the spine correctly to begin with. Wood shafts come in just about any spine you can immagin unlike carbons that require bareshaft tuning. If you want some help PM me.
Bob

[heydeerman]

Read this.  http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=032694#000000

The formula in the first post works.

[Old York]

From Aromakr -
"You know I'm amaized at all the advice your getting and they don't even know how deep your shelf is cut. That is a major factor in determining spine for any arrow."

Always good to have a "Pro" chime in, thanks Mr. Burton.

[Steve B.]

It's all good advice.  Use the info above to get in the ballpark and then shoot the arrows to see what works best.  Sort out the ones that shoot similarly and use them.

[snag]

That's what I was thinking Aromakr when it just said "recurve"...how is it built? cut to center, past center, how much...???

[Bill Carlsen]

Assuming your bow is centershot start here. Go 10# over your bow's weight at 28" to a 60-65 shaft if you are shooting 28" with a 125 grain point. For the extra length you refer to add at least 5# of spine....now you're in 65-70 territory. A 160 grain head may require as much as an additional 10# in spine....so now you are in the 75-80 territory. When you start to add weight up front, and length you need to add about 5# spine for each inch over 28 and 5# for each 25 grains or so over 125. For centershot bows at 28" add 10# more than the bow's marked weight at 28. If you  are using a modern fast flight type of string don't be surprised if you need even more spine....it all adds up!

[Orion]

Since about 8 out of 10 recurves are cut to center, including most of the older ones, it's a pretty good assumption in most cases.  And a lot of cut to center recurves will shoot arrows spined right at their weight, and you're not drawing more than 28 inches, I see no need to go real heavy in spine.  Might add 5# for a fast flite string, another 5# for a head over 125 grains.  That puts you in the 60-65# range.  Can go another 5# just for the hell of it.  The bow will shoot them fine.  Keep in mind, too, that with cedars, spines above 70# are becoming more difficult to find, particularly in 11/32 shafts.  Be best to get a trial pack of several spines from one of the mail order vendors.

[cooncrazy]

so if your drawing more than 28 inches you you have to start adding to the spine right

[Orion]

Yes, the general rule of thumb is to add 5# for each inch above 28 inches in draw.  Works the same way in the other direction, i.e., subtract 5# for every inch under a 28-inch draw.