Tuning AD Hammerheads

[Greg Owen]

How have you tuned them? They don't suggest bareshafting.  I have searched and found some advice but was hoping to find someone that actually tuned them.  Do you use smaller fletching? Or how about 2 fletched then go to 4 when tuned? Anyone care to share their learnings? Thanks

[Shinken]

Greetings Greg!

I picked some AD Hammerheads up for my son last fall, but of course, I had to shoot them out of all my longbows (41#, 45#, 56#, 60#, and 63#) as well to see how they flew.

The fortunate thing was that with 3 x 5" fletch and using 100 gr brass inserts they flew perfect (cut to 29") - like darts - out of both of our 55# longbows.  The graphite arrows had much faster recovery than the hard wood shafts I like to use for hunting.

I still choose to shoot wood, but the AD hammerheads would make a good alternative if I needed one.

Good luck!

[Greg Owen]

What is the best arrow cutoff saw to use for the carbon's?  I am going to have to buy one to tune these arrows. I want to get a good one.

[jrchambers]

oh you dont need a fancy saw just a cheap fine toothed pull saw and just make a quick cheap miter out of some scrap junk or just cut a hair long of goal and use a fine rasp and speed square to finish.

[Paul Mattson]

You will need a high speed saw.  People use a dremel tool or simular, or a cut off saw from Harbor Freight  http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42307

I use an Apple Arrow Saw, expensive for home use.
  http://www.applearchery.com/shop/apple_pro_saw.php

[amar911]

I know lots of people who use Dremel tools to cut arrows. JC Coots showed me how he does it. He marks the shaft all the way around where he wants to cut it off. He then makes a quick cut about a half inch longer than where he eventually wants to end up just to get the extra shaft out of the way so he can make the next cut fairly square. Next he cuts the shaft just a tad longer than his mark so he can do the final grinding and squaring. After that second cutting he "bumps" the shaft lightly on the side of the cutting blade to grind the shaft down almost all the way to his mark and make it mostly square. Finally, he uses a G5 ASD arrow squaring device to get the arrow to an almost perfect length and almost perfectly square. JC can do this all very quickly because he has had a lot of practice. I decided to take the easy approach and bought the Apple Pro Arrow Saw that Paul uses, except I bought the one with the shop vac attachment because I don't like to breathe carbon fiber dust. It is pretty much foolproof but fairly expensive too. I figure I will be cutting all my buddies' shafts for them. I also got the G5 ASD, but it is not really necessary with the Apple. I just like the way it leaves the ends of the shafts. Make sure you cut the AD shafts from the front, not the back like other shafts, because of the rear taper.

Allan

[bjk]

Lancaster has a saw for $70 or so...a no brainer.