Sharpening MA-3's?

[Bakes168]

I bought some used MA-3 Broadheads a while ago, along with a bunch of other kinds, and am trying to sharpen them.

What is the best way to do this? I do not have a wide enough file, and the blades are curved so it's hard to use a stone. I can get them slightly sharp by using a 6" Grobet file and sharpening them at the smallest angle I can without hitting the other blade with the file on that stroke.
I read on here that these are reliable heads, unlike the MA-2s. So if it all works out then my brother may end up using them next fall on whitetails out ot his 45# Grizzly.

Any advice?

Thanks
Zack  

[Elksong]

I sharpen them just like you would a Wensel Woodsman.
 http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=17;t=000047

[Bakes168]

I need to buy a bigger file.

[Tree man]

The biggest deer I ever hope to arrow was taken with an MA2-not a super tough head but it worked perfectly. I never liked MA3s that much. The laminated construction makes sharpening somewhat problematic.-On the 2 blade you can do a biased bevel or single bevel and get the edge onto one piece of steel-on the 3 blades that is harder to do.....but they CAN be made sharp.

[Coon007]

try a dremel tool with a sanding drum that works for me

[Bakes168]

I did manage to get the MA-2s shaving sharp, but would like to get the MA-3s there.

[Red Beastmaster]

A few years back I picked up 3doz MA-3's and Bodkins for $5. Really, that's all I think their worth. I use them on groundhogs. They are pretty soft and hard to get a good edge.

[wingnut]

At the price of broadheads, pick up some Grizzlys and tune them up.  The MA3s were ok in there time but there are so many better heads now.  I bought a 100 not long ago and "bobbed" them for use on small game.

Mike

[SCATTERSHOT]

I used to have some MA3s, and I sharpened two blades at a time. Just stroke the file back to point on two adjacent blades, and then strop them on a piece of cardboard by laying the head flat and stroking from back to point.

This makes a fairly wide angle on the edge, but you can get them sharp.

[SuperK]

I agree with Scattershot.  You can use a stone after the file.  I have been able to shave hair with this method.  Don't be surprised at "dull spots" that will not sharpen like the rest of the blade.  That is where the two edges are joined togeather.  Seems like the metal is "soft" compared to other broadheads like Magnus, Zwickeys, etc.

[Bowmania]

If you take off too much material on an MA-3, you've ruined the head, so becareful.  I like using the blue/red/green diamond files, but can do good with a mill bastard file.  The trick with a mill bastard file is hard to light strokes.  

I have a friend that has killed around 25 P&Y animals with an MA-3.  He switched to WW's and the results were so poor he's back to MA-3's.  The rounded shoulder reinforces the tip, where a WW will bend over.  Plus the WW is too narrow.  Inch wide and you sharpen it too much and you end up with an illegal BH in most states.

I've killed one animal (the only one I evershot at) with an MA-2.  Sharpened it with a Hollowground Sharpener (plastic green - holds two round files side by side) and ceramic sticks held in a V.  I can't sharpen two blades without brackets.  I got it real sharp and the length of the BH was good for penetration.  I used it on a cat, because a slit is easier for a taxidermist to fix.  Hit 'em twice and he only went 15 ft.  Straight down.

Bowmania

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Seriously, and respectfully......use another head to hunt big game with.

[raghorn]

The bighorn ram in my avitar was taken with a MA-3, along with whitetail,mule deer,and black bear. There is nothing soft about them. I can sharpen them with that arrow tucked under my arm and walking, using a file to where the MA-3 will shave hair. To make things clear....I'm talking about the older green MA-3, I have no experience with the new black ones.
I have said it before, THIS HEAD WILL TAKE ALL YOU DEMAND OF IT AND NOT FAIL!
Sharpen across two blades with a fine double cut file, back to front, rotating every stroke. When you don't see a shiny spots on the edge then lighten the strokes. I use what is called a knife file because the file is thicker on one side and thin on the other. They are made by Nicholson.
You guys that run this head down have not put honest time or experience into using it.