Author Topic: Carbon vs Aluminum (Read 1093 times)

George D. Stout · « **Reply #20 on:** February 03, 2009, 10:42:00 AM »

Someone mentioned that carbons are easier to front load. NO. They are not. The fact is any arrow that is hollow can be front loaded the same way. The fact is, nearly all carbons must be front loaded to bend properly unless ungodly long.

There isn't as much trouble when one shoots heavy bows, but once you get under fifty pounds, it becomes a big deal with anything but a cut-past-center bow. The carbon arrow companies have a good product that can be made much better by applying more consistent wall thicknes through a different set of spine categories, so one doesn't have to front load so heavily.

If you find anyone at a retail outlet that knows anything about traditional archery, you should put them on your address list. Most don't know there is anything but pulleys and cables and other thingies that you absolutely need to shoot a bow(?). They have no clue about spine or paradox; deflex or reflex, or anything that would involve serious research.

Gander Mountain is like any other big SG retailer, including Cabelas and Bass Pro; they are there to sell what is popular to the masses.

R H Clark · « **Reply #21 on:** February 03, 2009, 11:00:00 AM »

JackP
The reason you see a larger ,"GAP",with carbon arrows and your aluminums from your new bow is added speed and cast.

George
I don't front load my carbons.Mostly though I shoot bows in the 45-55 lb range.I draw 29" and my arrows are between 30"and 30.5".I shoot .600 from 45 lb bows .500 from 50 lb bows and .400 from 55 lb. I use regular aluminum inserts and usually 125 grn tips.

I do agree that when you have short draws or go under 45 lbs your carbon choices become limited.Maby the new GT shaft will solve some of these issues.

Beman ICS Energy and Easton Redlines can be bought as light as 1000 deflection.These carbon shafts however are very skinny and require non standard points and half-out inserts and such.They are fine for targets but not a hunting arrow.

sweeney3 · « **Reply #22 on:** February 03, 2009, 11:12:00 AM »

Buy your fishing stuff from Cabella's and GM. Get your arrows or arrow advice from a real Trad shop.

I've been shooting Gold Tip carbons, and I like them, but I am going to switch to wood. At least I'm going to try it out anyway.

M60gunner · « **Reply #23 on:** February 03, 2009, 11:27:00 AM »

I agree with those who say aluminums are easier to tune and carbons are tougher. Whatever you find works best for you, buy as many as you can before they change the shafts or quite making them. I have had both happen to me over the years.

recurve1 · « **Reply #24 on:** February 03, 2009, 12:06:00 PM »

Jackp, i know a lot of guys shoot carbon arrows but for me i've not had good experience with them. I normaly shoot 45-50 pounds, and it seems hard to get a carbon to fly good for me. Aluminum is so much easier to tune to my bow, as far as durability, i have'nt had a problem. I've got aluminums i've had for years. I love wood too but to get good wood arrows it is too expensive for me. Aluminum is actually the most CONSISTENT shaft material.

Schultzy · « **Reply #25 on:** February 03, 2009, 02:06:00 PM »

Yeah I keep forgetting that they do make much heavier carbons these days. I still wonder though why some of the guys are shooting light set ups whether there aluminum or carbon with any bow period.

maineac · « **Reply #26 on:** February 03, 2009, 02:56:00 PM »

This is a good thread for me. I have always shot aluminum for my old compound and now for my recurve. with all the talk I was considering going over to carbons, but do not want to invest in a whole new shops worth of tools to tune some. When my new limbs arrive I will probably stick with aluminum and up the tip weight.

JackP · « **Reply #27 on:** February 03, 2009, 03:27:00 PM »

Thanks you guys for all the advice and your input. R H Clark - Is there anything I can do to close the gap?

R H Clark · « **Reply #28 on:** February 03, 2009, 06:09:00 PM »

JackP
I switched to three under to help close the gap.Anything you do to your anchor to get the nock closer to your eye will shorten your point on,effectively closing the gap on shorter distance shots.

You can also lengthen your arrows,but that will require you to shoot a slightly stiffer spine and will only help so much.Lengthening is probably only useful if you were trying to fine tune to shoot spot on at 20 yards like for an indoor spot shooting match.

You can shoot heavier arrows,which will work well on closer shots but it will increase your arc of trajectory on longer shots.

I'm primarly a 3D target shooter.Shooting three under with slightly longer arrows and 8 grains per lb for arrow speeds around 200 fps has hepled increase my score a lot.

It's a lot easier for me to judge a gap that's a foot at 20 yards.When I shot split finger that gap was closer to half the distance to the target at 20 yards.

JackP · « **Reply #29 on:** February 03, 2009, 06:38:00 PM »

R H Clark - I do shoot three fingers under, but as far as shootings some longer arrows, will that make me lose penetration? That is what I have been told anyways. As I'm sure everyone can tell I am a new young traditional hunter with a very little info on trad hunting, so all this info is greatly appreciated!!! Thanks for everyones help!

R H Clark · « **Reply #30 on:** February 03, 2009, 07:07:00 PM »

I wouldn't think a longer arrow would hurt penetration if it is as well tuned as your shorter arrow.If your shorter arrow is tuned properly you will have to either lessen point weight or shoot a heavier spined arrow, to properly tune a longer arrow.

If you are concerned about penetration,a small diam.carbon front loaded to make a slightly heavier arrow than what you are shooting,will solve your gap problem.You will also get better penetration than a same weight aluminum.

Unless you have a 25 inch draw you aren't going to shorten the gap much with a longer arrow.

Do you anchor with your index finger? If you can go to a middle finger anchor,that will probably help to shorten the gap more than a longer arrow.

JackP · « **Reply #31 on:** February 03, 2009, 07:53:00 PM »

Yeah I put my middle finger in the corner of my mouth, when I get home this weekend ill try different anchor points and see if I can't get something to work. Thanks for your help!

Orion · « **Reply #32 on:** February 03, 2009, 09:25:00 PM »

Anchoring with the index finger in effect lowers the rear sight and decreases the gap. Anchoring with the middle finger raises the rear sight and increases the gap. So, if you switch from the middle finger in the corner of your mouth to the index finger in the corner of your mouth, the gap will decrease, regardless of the shaft material used.

If you're conscious of the gap, and from the way you described your shooting in your initial post, you are, you are gap shooting, not using split vision. Nothing wrong with that, of course. Gap shooting works particularly well when the distances are known and the gaps can be locked in. In hunting situations, where the shot distance can change by the second, split vision accommodates the changes more quicky and easily. Might want to practice that as well. Gpod luck.

James Wrenn · « **Reply #33 on:** February 03, 2009, 09:27:00 PM »

I have just never understood the concept of carbons being hard to tune.An aluminum is just as hard to tune if you go and buy one that is not spined for your bow. :confused: Easton makes carbon arrows in spines that will shoot from any weight bow without going crazy with brass inserts or 300 grain points.Just do the research and buy the right arrow to start with like you would if shooting wood or aluminum and you will never have problems.Buying arrows by looks or grns per inch instead of spine is what creats the problems people have.

jmho

Yellow Dog · « **Reply #34 on:** February 03, 2009, 09:57:00 PM »

In the past you had a wide range of aluminums to chose from. Pick the length of arrow you wanted to shoot, broadhead/fieldpoint weight and could tune any setup. I fought going to carbons for years because when I tried them a dozen years ago what was out there was junk. Easton is slowly getting out the aluminum business based on their reduced selection of aluminums over the past couple of years. Made the switch to carbons in the last year and I couldn't be more please with the performance of them. Can bare shaft them with a big varience in point weight and they take a beating. In my opinion the smaller diameter increase's penatration.

MikeW · « **Reply #35 on:** February 03, 2009, 10:28:00 PM »

Personally I can't stand aluminum arrows, clink clank ewwww! plus I'd bend a dozen a week. I like carbon then wood. The carbon arrow is about the greatest thing to happen to archery in the last 50 years.

Ssamac · « **Reply #36 on:** February 04, 2009, 12:34:00 AM »

I have some carbons sitting around which I tried shooting thru my Pearson Mustang 50# recurve. Normally shoot wood. The carbons shot great. So how do I compare spines? I have 5575s, 6705s and another marked with only 400. How do these equate to aluminum or wood for spine? Also, they seem to be 5/16 shafts, but a couple are just a tad less. My gauge does not have a step down from 5/16 to match. Is that normal?

Thanks
sam

SERGIO VENNERI · « **Reply #37 on:** February 04, 2009, 12:58:00 PM »

I,m with Joe on this one.Penetration is never a problem,with my 8.6 swaged Bear magnums. I have no intention of switching any of my equipment or getting caught up in the media hype.jmho.

Bonebuster · « **Reply #38 on:** February 04, 2009, 07:47:00 PM »

I avoided carbon arrows for all the reasons mentioned. For years I steered clear of them, sticking to aluminum and wood.

One day I was shooting with a friend who was shooting carbons from his compound. My 3-D target fell over driving our arrows into the ground. My aluminum arrows were ruined. He dug the dirt out of his nocks, and put his arrows back in his quiver for more shooting.

I decided to give carbons another go, and have never looked back.

There are more choices available than ever, they ARE more durable by a longshot, penetrate better, and are really not that much more money in the long run.


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Author Topic: Carbon vs Aluminum (Read 1093 times)

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