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OL tuning method
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Topic: OL tuning method (Read 610 times)
beck
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 2
OL tuning method
«
on:
February 16, 2009, 12:14:00 PM »
Getting my first longbow and want to use his method. When tuning should you hold bow vertical as some methods I have read, or cant it the way you shoot.
I have been shooting a compound with fingers, without sights and canting the bow. Can't wait to shoot a real bow.
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mooseman76
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 1114
Re: OL tuning method
«
Reply #1 on:
February 16, 2009, 12:17:00 PM »
Beck, I shoot my bow canted just as I would for all my other shooting. The only thing to remember is to rotate your results the same as your cant. ie...you cant your bow to 2 o'clock bare shafts hitting high will be at 2 o'clock instead of 12 o'clock (compared to your fletched shafts). Hope this didn't confuse you...Mike
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Bob L.
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 312
Re: OL tuning method
«
Reply #2 on:
February 16, 2009, 01:42:00 PM »
I would say bareshaft tune the way your going to shoot the bow.
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Tater John
Contributing Member
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 506
Re: OL tuning method
«
Reply #3 on:
February 16, 2009, 01:46:00 PM »
When first using O.L.'s methods I canted my bows but have since held the bows I tune verticle. I vary the amount of canting when practicing hunting shots. When hunting I am in many different posed positions, treestands, ground, sitting , kneeling, rotated a the waist...
Maybe its all in my head, the arrow is tuned to the bow and bow to the arrow. If the shot is off my form is off.
Rusty
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"Mystic rhythms,Under northern lights or the African sun,Primitive things stir the hearts of everyone"
Bjorn
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 8789
Re: OL tuning method
«
Reply #4 on:
February 16, 2009, 01:47:00 PM »
I shoot the bareshafts with the bow straight up and down to eliminate any more variables, and the fletched arrows any way I would normally shoot.
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JimmyC
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 234
Re: OL tuning method
«
Reply #5 on:
February 16, 2009, 01:51:00 PM »
Shoot the bow upside down, sideways, canted, verticle, however you like, although as consistent as possible helps.
The bottom line is that you look for the pattern of the bare shafts vs. fletched shafts. Then make very small changes based on your OBJECTIVE findings.
Follow O.L.'s instructions line by line so that you get all the details. Once you do it a few times the overal concept will sink in.
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"Anything worth doing is worth doing badly."--G.K. Chesterton
JimmyC
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 234
Re: OL tuning method
«
Reply #6 on:
February 16, 2009, 01:52:00 PM »
Shoot the bow upside down, sideways, canted, verticle, however you like, although as consistent as possible helps.
The bottom line is that you look for the pattern of the bare shafts vs. fletched shafts. Then make very small changes based on your OBJECTIVE findings.
Follow O.L.'s instructions line by line so that you get all the details. Once you do it a few times the overal concept will sink in.
Logged
"Anything worth doing is worth doing badly."--G.K. Chesterton
metsastaja
TGMM Member
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 1165
Re: OL tuning method
«
Reply #7 on:
February 16, 2009, 05:16:00 PM »
Beck I just finished using OL method. I suggest you read reread take notes and then start shooting. There is a lot of information for the first timer.
I Printed it out and had a copy out where I was shooting. Best of luck
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Les Heilakka
TGMM Family of the Bow
Some times the uneventful nights are just as good if not better than the eventful ones
katman
Contributing Member
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 3575
Re: OL tuning method
«
Reply #8 on:
February 16, 2009, 09:48:00 PM »
I will start bareshaft tuning with the bow vertical(easiest to repeat) to get them right, less variables in the equation. Final adjustments are then made, if needed, by shooting the bow with the typical amount of cant I use and then broadheads if it his a hunting setup.
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shoot straight shoot often
cgeiser
Trad Bowhunter
Posts: 30
Re: OL tuning method
«
Reply #9 on:
February 17, 2009, 09:02:00 AM »
Be patient! I'm pretty new to archery, about a year now. And this tuning stuff took me a long time. I think I had too stiff a spine originally and was having the nock end hit the shelf making it look spine weak. It took a long time and a lot of frustration to figure this out.
Follow the advice written elsewhere to add point weight until you have proven to yourself that you were over spines before cutting. OL wrote on one of these pages that being overspined is far more common than underspined. From my experience I believe it!
Good luck and have fun
Che
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