Finding the Perfect Arrow (if one exists)

[Traditional Gal]

Hello to Every Master Archer,

I have a 60s or 70s Bear Kodiak Magnum.  It is a 42# bow at 28 inches, I'm 29 inches.  I currently shoot 50-55 cedar arrows that I won at a bow shoot.  My husband thinks that I should get a set of carbons for hunting (better penetration for a sure kill).  We do not know where to start.  Any ideas?

[katman]

I don't qualify as a master archer but here is my take anyway.

How heavy of a point/broadhead would you like to use? 500 spine for lighter heads, 400 for heavy heads(high foc).

Here is a great read for tuning shafts, something you must do with carbon arrows.
 http://www.bowmaker.net/tuning.htm

[b.glass]

You are shooting close to the same poundage as me. Just a little less, but at a longer draw. I draw to 26". I like the Carbon Express Heritage 150's. I think they would work for you. I too am not a "Master".


Bona

[Orion]

Nothing wrong with carbons, of course, but folks have been killing critters for thousands of years with a lot lighter setups than you're using.  Obviously, I'm partial to wood myself.  Good luck in your endeavor.

[R H Clark]

44-45 lbs at 29" I think .600 spine.

[30coupe]

I agree with RH!

[Wannabe1]

Nothing wrong with sticking with those cedars! They'll do the job just fine. Shot placement and a good sharp BH will take care of everything. Good luck and stay safe.  

[JGoemaat]

Better penetraion, you  must be going antelope hunting or something.  

[overbo]

The old saying.Don't mess w/ it if it aint broke.I'm w/ Wanna.If your hunting deer size and smaller game.The cedars are fine.

[James Wrenn]

A 600 spine and plan on useing a heavier broadhead since that bow most likely is useing a dacron string.

[Traditional Gal]

Thank you for all your advice.  My husband and I will consider every piece of it.  I am partial to cedars myself, but since I actually have not even harvested an animal with my bow (or even with a gun), I do not want to experience the heart-ache that accompanies the inability to find your target after the shot.  I have seen what happens to those who love the sport and even my heart aches then.

[Pat B]

Carbon or aluminum, or wood for that matter, will not assist you in finding your quarry if you don't put the arrow in the kill zone. The arrow material doesn't matter. It's the one shooting the bow and the arrow placement that matters. If you are comfortable with your wood arrows and shoot them well, why change.

[trapdoor]

Yep, arrow placement is everything...and you might want to check these out too. They add weight to your wood arrow, without taking anything away from the nostalgia of using wood.  They are called Woodyweights. You can see them at woodyweights.com  
   I used them this past season, and I was thoroughly impressed. Any questions you have,  contact Mike Deppe, the guy who invented them, you can contact him right from the site, he's very helpful, and just a great guy.

[Paul Mattson]

I have to agree with Pat B.  

If you have an arrow that is flying great out of your bow, changing arrow matieral will not make you a better shot.

[bayoulongbowman]

ur shooting 45 pounds, if ya pull 29..eastman 600 will work!

[Winterhawk1960]

I'm shooting a longbow that is 42# @ 28" also. My bow likes the GT 35/55's left full length with 225 grains up front. The traditional Gold Tips look mighty nice......nope they aint wood, but sure look like it.

Winterhawk1960

[Killdeer]

Is 29" the length of arrow you are using, or your draw length? I am 5'4", and draw 26.5". Have your husband mark your arrow at the back of the riser (where the point protrudes past the rest)when you are at a natural full draw. No stretching!

If your draw is more like mine, then an 1816 aluminum arrow 27.5" or 28" with a 125 grain point will be about right.

Good bow! I like my K-Mags a whole bunch!
Killdeer  

[Traditional Gal]

My current cedars are 50-55.  Sometimes they fly great (shorter than 10 yds.) and other times my husband and I are confused (longer than 10 yds.).  This is another reason why my husband and I are looking at other arrows.

[Orion]

There are cedars, and then there are cedars.  Did you check the nocks on all your arrows to make sure they are on straight?  A crooked nock will throw your arrow way off.  A crooked point will have an effect as well, but not as much.  Also, the shafts may or may not be spined the same.  Just because someone put a 50-55# tag on them doesn't mean they're all 50-55#.  Of course you need a spine tester to find out.  

To find the culprits in your current batch, write a different number or letter on each of your arrows.  Then keep track of the fliers you're getting.  If it turns out being the same one or two numbered arrows, there's something wrong with those arrows (See above.) Of course, poor arrow flight can also be caused by inconsistent release, form, etc,

Wood arrows are more difficult to work with than carbon or aluminum.  Shafts aren't as consistent in spine or weight (or grain) as carbon or aluminum.  To do it right, one needs a spine tester, grain scale and good tapering device.  

Carbon or aluminum may be a better choice,  particularly if you're just getting in trad archery.  Once you find a carbon or aluminum shaft that works for you, the work is pretty much over.  Might try some of the combinations already offered.  Good luck.