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Author Topic: Glueing Points  (Read 1085 times)

Offline **DONOTDELETE**

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Glueing Points
« on: March 14, 2007, 07:30:00 PM »
Just getting started out making my own cedars. I'm curious as to how everyone or what everyone uses to attach their points. Justin

Offline Steve P

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Re: Glueing Points
« Reply #1 on: March 14, 2007, 07:42:00 PM »
Ferr-l-tite. Clean oil from inside tip, heat glue stick with flame(candle/prop.torch), smear melted glue on shaft taper, apply tip and heat over flame then with a piece of leather twist/push tip on. Check alignment/true. After cooling peel excess glue off.


                   Steve

Offline **DONOTDELETE**

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Re: Glueing Points
« Reply #2 on: March 14, 2007, 08:05:00 PM »
Thanks Steve. Justin

Offline Nakohe

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Re: Glueing Points
« Reply #3 on: March 14, 2007, 08:41:00 PM »
Justin I use regular hot glue sticks. A little peice melted in the point and( hold with pliers)hold on till cool for just a few seconds and they hold well for me. Have had no problems. And easy to remove, just reheat.
"Then Peter said unto them. Repent all of you and be baptized in the Name of Jesus for remission of sins and ye shall receive the gift of the Holy Ghost.
Acts 2:38


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Offline Kingstaken

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Re: Glueing Points
« Reply #4 on: March 14, 2007, 09:55:00 PM »
Usually done right bewteen stove and sink when wifey is not home.
Heat hot melt glue.
put on shaft
put on field tip or judo point
holding arrow and pushing it with tip against something solid forcing tip to saet and remove excess glue
apply pressure to tip while checking alignment.
Let cool or put under sink to
Peel glue or if I'm in a slow mode, use a clean rag to wipe it off while still hot.
Nice thing next to a sink, is you can run the water to cool down point faster.
Same thing for judos.
"JUST NOCK, DRAW AND BE RELEASED"

Offline Jim now in Kentucky

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Re: Glueing Points
« Reply #5 on: March 14, 2007, 11:52:00 PM »
I smear melted hot glue on the shaft taper, heat it until it bubble, twist on the cool point with my fingers. It cools and is solid in seconds.

Of course, it only works well with points that have not been mounted, so have no glue residue in them.
"Reparrows save arrows!"

"But without faith it is impossible to please Him, for he that cometh to God must believe that he is and that He is a rewarder of them that diligently seek Him." Hebrews 11:6

Offline AkDan

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Re: Glueing Points
« Reply #6 on: March 15, 2007, 01:04:00 AM »
I also smear a lil on the taper.  I dont like heating it to the point of bubbling though.  I kinda wonder if it doesnt make it more brittle?  Atleast in the cold.  Also it tends to push a bit more out then I'd like.  

Also no real need to clean the grease anymore on the PDPS.

Basically make a swipe or two on the taper with a softened holt melt stick.

Take your field point, heat it up, you'll see the oil sheen burn off if you watch close enough.  I hold it on rotating for a couple seconds past and on she goes.   It's pretty rare one comes off anymore.  I believe good tapers is a big factor, and not overheating it.  

You'll get the feel for how much glue to use and how much heat with practice.   My goal is to not have any come out at all, or just a tad.  If some comes out, take a tshirt and wipe towards the point, or let it cool slightly and just peel it off, but dont wait for it to get cold.  Ya heat it up to much it'll want to pop off, where some cold water comes handy.    

Broadheads are no different.  The trick to bh alignment is getting a GOOD taper and next, making sure it's seated.  Not to much glue and not to little.    To much glue and it'll float on the taper.

Offline madness522

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Re: Glueing Points
« Reply #7 on: March 15, 2007, 06:01:00 AM »
The methods above will all work just fine.  The only thing I can add is that I have been using regular hot melt glue from a craft store because the ferr-l-tite seems to be brittle in the cold weather and I have a few points lost in my half deer target.
Barry Clodfelter
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Offline Tree man

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Re: Glueing Points
« Reply #8 on: March 15, 2007, 09:38:00 AM »
The biggest bugaboo is getting the stinking oil out of the points. I heat the tip of my hotmelt in a small torch flame,smear a dab on the taper , heat the point in the flame while holding with pliers  and seat it with a twisting motion to thoroughly distribute the glue then spin the arrow like a top to check alignment.

Offline TexMex

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Re: Glueing Points
« Reply #9 on: March 15, 2007, 09:47:00 AM »
I use de-natured alcohol to clean out the points.
I twist a papertowel to a point, dip in alcohol and clean out the point.  I then use Duco to glue the points, haven't had any problems.

Offline formerbutcher

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Re: Glueing Points
« Reply #10 on: March 15, 2007, 10:18:00 AM »
I'm with Texmex, i use duco.
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Offline Dave Worden

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Re: Glueing Points
« Reply #11 on: March 15, 2007, 06:54:00 PM »
I use Ferrule-Tite also.  I've also "threaded" the inside of the tip a little bit to add some roughness.  They seem to hold fine.  I've also added a few number six shotshell BB's in the tips before glueing to add a little more FOC.  They just get caught in the glue when the tips are installed.  Choose the number according to how much weight you want to add.  If it's a lot, you may have to sand the tip of your taper off a little to make room.
"If I was afraid of a challenge, I'd put sights on my bow!"

Offline JBiorn

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Re: Glueing Points
« Reply #12 on: March 15, 2007, 07:00:00 PM »
I use a little hot glue gun. After cleaning out the point, I just shoot a dab into the ferrule and right into the taper. Works like a charm(The amber colored glue seems to be tougher than the clear)

 Jeff

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