First time Arrow Maker

[snag]

So,
1)I've got the shafts tapered for nocks
2)Have cresting machine, minwax wipe on stain, spray polyurethane for crown, duco cement for fletching, testor paints for cresting, steel wool...I think I am ready.
  When I apply the stain should I tape off the point at which the crown will start? Or does it matter? When I crown I can just tape off the point I want the crown to stop...or is it better not to have the stain and poly overlap????

[ChuckC]

You probably want to overlap finishes, but not necessariy the crown and shaft stains.  You can run them together then crest over the joint.  There is probably no "right" way, just "your" way.  

Good luck, post pix when you are done.
ChuckC

[aromakr]

snag:
If you are going to overlap the finishes you will  want make sure they are compatable first. Dark stains will show up under some crowndips.
Bob

[Fletcher]

One thing I would add, Snag, is some clear poly to seal the shafts with.  I prefer Minway fast dry oil base, but the polyacrylic works fine, too.  Wipe on two coats over the stain but under the crown and a final coat over the entire shaft after the crown and crest.  Enjoy and shoot with pride.      Rick

[snag]

Now I'm talking to "the man"...Fletcher! lol  So, it sounds like it is a trial and error situation...?  I will start with an experimental shaft I guess.  I just hate to waste a shaft if I don't have to.  

I think I will stain up to the area to crown, apply sealer coat, then crown and crest, then seal the whole thing.  I have the big dip tube with the gasket system to help apply an even coat when sealing. If I get anything made that I'm not embrassed by I will post it.

[Kevin Lawler]

I make a small pencil mark at the point where my crown ends. If my stain is dark I only stain to that point because, as Bob says, it will show under white crown. Seal the shaft first so the crown is smooth. I dip my crown down to the pencil mark. I can cover the junction with my cresting. I finish with a full length dip into water based poly so it doesn't melt the crested or crown.

[snag]

Thanks Kevin! That is what I needed to know. I appreciate it.  David

[The Whittler]

If you crown with white the oil base poly will have a yellowish tint to it, water base poly will not.

When I do wood arrows I stain, crown, and crest then I apply 4-5 coats of polly, I do not sand the polly until just before the last coat and they come out like glass. Just make sure the stain is DRY and also the crown and crest. After I crown, stain, and crest I let the arrows set for a couple of days before I apply the poly. Have fun and enjoy. Alan

[snag]

More good advice. That is a good tip on NO sanding between poly coats until the last coat. I was told to sand between each coat..? Your way Alan would really make the finish have clarity and shine. Is Minwax a water base poly? or do they make both?

[snag]

One guy said it is not a good idea to use the WATER based poly because it introduces moisture back into the wood.....?  What do you think? Is there a possible problem?

[Shawn Leonard]

It really does not matter, a lot of guys use the water based. I myself like the oil based and I like to dip my shaft for the final coat. I use 70% poly and 30% paint thinner, it makes for a smoother coating and dries a bit quicker. Shawn