Lets talk static tips

[Gil Verwey]

I have had two Ballistiks and three RERS. I had a hard time finding the sweet spot for the nock, but nothing like you experienced. Once I was able to shoot through paper clean, I then moved to bare shaft tuning. I guess I was lucky, because I could shoot a bare shaft out to some far distances and hit with my fletch shafts. I wound up shooting 10 gpp. I am curious as to which static it was. Can you PM the make?

Thanks
Gil

[DanDaMan]

O.L.,
I am not really arguing that bare shafting doesn't work, what I am saying is that I think it is not the end all way to tune a bow.  I got so caught up in bare shafting that I spent tons of money on different arrow, point weights, and so on trying to fix what according to your chart showed me as stiff.  The arrows always flew like darts with fletch and would drive BHs spot on(if I did my part) out to 40yds.  But they still show stiff.  So I just said they are good and went with it.  Been pounding targets ever sense.  I am not doubting your knowledge and experience in this subject.  I just feel that it is not the end all method and may not be for everyone.  We don't shoot mechanical releases, so that is a variable that alters the data.  I cant my bow pretty far, does that alter the data????  Some how people have been getting arrows to fly really well for quite a long time without bare shafting, does that mean Fred Bear didn't sight in his rifle???
Dan

[O.L. Adcock]

Dan, "The arrows always flew like darts with fletch and would drive BHs spot on"

I'm not either....Broadheads and field tips flew like darts?....Ok, What if the BH's grouped to the left of the field tips??? Their stiff, right?...Same with bare shafts...You are/were looking at the wrong data. "But they still show stiff" What about them told you they were "stiff"? Shaft angle I'd bet so you are mixing methods that work with those that don't. I'd bet Fred did the same with BH's...And it's the same as the correct way to bare shaft.

I seldom if ever bare shaft tune, I use wide broadheads. But for those that don't want to spend a $100 on an assortment of BH's to tune with, bare shaft planing will tell you what you need before you buy. I wouldn't strip fletching off something to bare shaft, again I'd use wide broadheads. If I was setting up a bow for 3D or other target work and never intended to shoot broadheads, then I'd use the planing method. Because there is no better way. Again you can't say one works and one doesn't cause they are the same thing. Canting? Sure, you cant the bow 20 degrees it'll twist the groups 20 degrees? If someone can't in there mind twist the groups the same as their bow cant, I'd not sure there's much hope!    Once tuned, canting makes no difference....O.L.

[String Cutter]

O. L. I never heard of anyone else but me doing it . But I like to Bare shaft paper tune. Seems to work real well for me. Is there any down side to doing it this way???
I've found that after I start shooting bullet holes with the bare shaft paper method my feild tips and BH's both shot great.
Was thinking of also going to a clicker??

[O.L. Adcock]

String, "I've found that after I start shooting bullet holes"

That's the problem...What do you tell folks that no matter what the do, they can't shoot bullet holes? It may work for you but not for 90% of the folks out there. Some of the best shooters in the world can not shoot a shaft "straight" with fingers and makes trying to tune a bow that way futile.

Overbow, You moved the nock point around...You have a nock set both above and below, right? Many of us, including myself have a tendency to do something with our release that will slide the arrow down the string. Some bows too there is a very small window between too much and not enough. If that doesn't cure it, there's something going on with the tiller. I've seen bows do that but they were reverse tillered. Have you measured it?...O.L.

[overbo]

I did measure the tiller and the lower and upper limb measurements where the same.No I have not tried a upper and lower knock set.I no longer have the bows.I was having a brain fart and was wondering about the negative happenings I had w/ this limb type.

[DanDaMan]

O.L.

I am glad you said that about the cant, because that was one of the things that bugged me when I was doing it.  I know it seems simple to think that way but it was not something that was included in your publication from your web site.  Given that your are who you are, I didn't bug you with my problems trying to attempt your method.  The problem for me was that arrows are just as expensive or more so than broadheads.  I can test my arrows cheaper with BH easier than buying new shafts.  

Thanks for all you have given to the sport and keep doing it.
Dan

[O.L. Adcock]

Dan, Bug away, everyone else does!    I don't mind. I'll put something in about the cant... Oh yes, I'm totally against "shot gunning" arrows trying to find the one that works..Get a set and do what you need to do to tune them. Folks start trying to extrapolate what they see between one shaft and another and there's too many variables to do that...O.L.

[wingnut]

O.L.

Have you seen and used this calculator?

 http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=071556

It sure gets things in the ballpark before you head to the butts.  Also if you have a combo that is tuned you can put in the components and see why and use the data to duplicate it with other shafts.

I'm a numbers and visual learner. . .LOL

Mike

[O.L. Adcock]

Mike, it looks pretty good. I plugged in some numbers to compare to what I'm currently shooting and it was close.....O.L.