Getting aluminum swaged

[nc recurveman]

Anybody know where you can send aluminums to get swaged for glue-on points and how much does it cost?

[SERGIO VENNERI]

Mike Dickess , Irontown Ohio. does Awesome swaging!!

[Eric in FLA]

Contact info for Mike Please ?

[Scooter Trash]

I'm not sure about getting arrows swagged. But RJ Archery sells swagged arrows 406-375-9420.  A The footed Shaft in Rochester Mn. used to swage arrows but not sure if he still does.

[TXRED]

Here ya go,Eric:
        Mike Dickess
        2630 State Route 141
        Ironton,Ohio 45638
        (740)532-0142
        Email: [email protected]

[ckruse]

I'll probably get blasted for saying this, but I tried swaged aluminum years ago and had bad results. I used 2219's and they ended up being weak right behind the taper. If I hit a rock or hard stump while stumping, they had a tendency to bend in that area. These were swaged by a reputable place that did a lot of business in the late 80's early 90's. I found the 5 degree insert adapters to be a lot better and more economical deal. These were made by Easton and Flitemate, and I found the Easton's to be the best. From the shoulder of the taper they fit down into the shaft 1 1/8" which is longer than the Flitemate's. I have found this acts as an "internal footing" that makes your arrow wicked tough on the front end. I know of several sources to get these, and they turn up on the auction site all the time. I bought a couple of hundred packs a few years ago in my favorite sizes, and never looked back. The Easton's also come with a snap-off tip that allows for full length use or a short taper for use with a bleeder insert.

Obviously, this is just my opinion/results, but I find it funny that everyone is now trying to figure out how to "foot" thier carbon arrows and get better service out of their aluminums. Seems to me that technology has been out there for several decades.It would also seem this would accomplish the same intention as swaging, while still allowing for the flexibility of cutting shafts longer, changing to an RPS insert, or whatever. Take care, CKruse

[GWS]

RJArchery located  in MT does at swage that is hammermilled, that is they start with an arrow 1" longer and hammer the shaft down while creating a taper that effectively doubles the thickness of the shaft for one inch. I tried the ones that were spin formed which thins the arrow and ruined a doz quiet speedily. I don't think RJ sells arrows anymored but will swage your shafts if you send them to them. Anyway I  have experienced excellent results and durability with a hammermilled swage. I don't have the phone # because I haven't needed shafts in quiet awhile. Directory assist should find them.

[Longbowmark]

GWS mentioned that a swage with a hammermill is the way to go.  I can not agree more.  A friend of mine pioneered the process of the swaged alluminum arrow and he found that a simple swage was not enough.  He used a hammermill and that made a very nice and perfect swage.   I used to swage arrows that were sold to the likes of Three
Rivers or Kustom King I forget which.  I did them by the thousand.  I recommend this for any allumimum shooter.   My friend still has the equip and is building arrows in Grand Rapids MI

[SERGIO VENNERI]

I normally try to stay out of these controversial subjects, but feel that i have to express my educated humble opinion on this swaging. I have used swaged arrows for probably 30 years, i've owned a spin swager for most of this time and have also purchased swaged arrows from Mikes archery and have experienced "O" problems. i'ved repeatedy read about twisting in the swaged area , this is caused from the swager not being hot enough! The process involves a swager that looks like a 3/4" drum sander with a 5 degree taper  up the center, the arrow is held in a jig similiar to a flaring tool clamp. the arrow sticks out about 7/8" ,the swager mounted in a drill press spins at app. 1000 RPM and you simply bring it down on the arrow and it heats and reshapes the arrow to a 5 degree taper, how this"thins" the arrow taper is beyond my limited comprehension!!?? I can also double swageif i want more strength, simply by inserting a smaller 1 1/2" piece of arrow in the tip before i swage. Voila!
       I once ordered a hammer swaged doz. arrows and was Personally dissappointed, i found the taper too short and that there was a kind of lip at the back of the swage that made it difficult to align the broadhead properly, i ended up cutting the swages off and gluing in one piece broadhead adapters.
       I want to makeit clear that this is not an endoresment for anyone, it is my opinion without any prejudice as i only use my swager for myself and friends at no charge.Also might add that Paul schafer swaged his own arrows with a swager he got from me.Which ever swaged arrows you choose i hope you like them and emjoy shooting them as much as i do. JMHO.

[GWS]

Sergio, Thanks for explaining how a spin swage is performed. I presumed that the heat generated would somehow thin the aluminum but since none was removed it is all still there, duh! I really can see how an insert would be great for durability and FOC. RJ Archery would make two length swages one long and one short for those who used inserts in their broadheads and I never noticed a lip at all just a perfect swage. The short of it is a person that has good workmanship turns out a good product. No controversy here, apologies offered.

[SERGIO VENNERI]

Hi George;
               No apologies necessary. Just wanted to point out that there is more than one way to skin the proverbial cat. This is a great site, great discussions with no one getting upset ! Ya gotta luv it!