help me pic out an arrow

[eman614]

before i started hanging around this site i new nothing about arrows, foc and stuff like that. since being on this site, i know that i am using the wrong arrow, but that is about it. i shoot a r/d longbow that i made, the draw weight is 56# @28 in which is also my draw length. i'd like to shoot a 29in carbon arrow. someone please help. what spine will i need, how much weight up front, things like that is what i need to know. forgot to mention i will be shooting the old bear razorheads so i will have a little play in the head weight pending what insert i use. thanks for any help.
eric

[R H Clark]

I would say a .400 carbon with mid to low tip weight.

The thing is that you should never cut a carbon to length and then try to tune.You need to tune by length.

[jake jr. trickshot]

ttt

[Rob DiStefano]

imho ...

carbon shafts are finicky to pick out when compared with wood and alum - alum hasta be the easiest to tune up for any archer/bow setup.

the only exception i've found, and there may be others, is the ad trad shaft - it just *works* for any arrow length or bow weight from 45 to 70 pounds or so.  it's tapered carbon, and i think that's part of its friendliness.

another thing i've noticed, after spending lotsa time and money on carbon shafts and setups, is that the same arra and bow setup may just work differently for each of us, and that the carbon spine charts are hugely lacking.

what carbon shaft spine works for me may not work at all for you, and vice versa.  i'm a prime example of this as i use the same 29" beman ics 500's for bows that range from 40 to 55 pounds in holding weight - i do change the front end weight to tailor both the gpp and foc.

if you, it's best to try other's arrows or get a sampling kit of carbons from a vendor.  good luck!

[pooahl]

Start with a full-length shaft, or at least 30", and trim down by small increments until you get it shooting how you want, feathers or no feathers. It's easier to do this by bare-shaft method, as you can glue in a point and just trim the tail end of the shaft. Remember that half an inch can make a big difference once you get close to the right spine.  R H is right about the .400 spine as a good starting point. Since every rig and shooter is different, you'll just have to make adjustments until it shoots right for you. How much weight you put up front is a matter of taste and personal preference, but account for your broadhead length and weight when you're tuning. You can pick up inserts in various weights, so it's just up to how you want to balance the FOC. There are numerous threads on TG concerning this.  Finally, some carbons are heavier than others, so pay attention to raw shaft weight, especially if you're concerned with overall weight. A good set of carbons will be very satisfying because they're tough and straight. Good luck.

[eman614]

thanks guys. i was hoping that i would get some good input. please keep it coming. pooahl that is a great idea about bare shafting and cutting off the back end instead of having to dake out the insert each time. i have another question. how do i go about bareshaft tuning and arrow? do i shoot it through paper and read the tear or what? thanks for the help so far.
eric

[Rob DiStefano]

personally, i see no need for bareshaft testing.  fletch up a full length shaft, point up, take it from there.

[BowMIke]

My 55#@27 R&D longbow likes 500 Beman MFX Classics with 100 grain brass inserts and 125 grain tips. It also shoots the 400 MFX Classics with 100 grain brass insert and 125 very well, but I think I will try a 140 grain point to make it as good as the 500's. The 29" Beman mfx 400 with brass insert and 140 grain tip should weigh 577 grains. (the 500's with 125 tips are 525 grains).
Best of Luck. Have Fun!

[Tom-Wisconsin]

I am not an expert but I read some where that if you use a bare shaft and it flies staight then it is the correct spine. Am I correct?

[snag]

Do you know how the shelf is cut? Is it cut to center, 1/8" from center...? Makes a big difference in what spine arrow it will like. Bareshafting arrows will ensure that you have a great flying arrow when fletched. Some just don't like to go through the steps to do this. I like knowing they are right on the money!

[eman614]

the shelf is cut 1/8 of and inch from center. would i need a lighter spine if it is not cut to center? i was thinking 400's but, not too sure i shouldn't go with 500s. especially since i would really like to shoot 29in arrows or close to it.thanks again,eric

[pooahl]

Bare shaft tuning has been debated here. I've been told by reputable bowyers that it's overrated. It has worked OK for me. I'm just saying that if you plan to try different carbon arrow lengths, it works better not to re-glue inserts. Cut the tail end instead. Once you're close, tune as you wish.

eman, I would try to get my hands on two different spined shafts of the same make and compare them if I were you. Then you'll be sure. Call sponsors and see who can hook you up. I know Sipsey River used to sell individual shafts. It's worth paying shipping on a couple shafts to get it right before you buy a dozen.

[Rob DiStefano]

imo, there is no universal perfect way to predict what shaft/arrow will work well/best for both you and your bow.  wish there was, but there ain't.  there's not a thing wrong with trying/employing any shaft/arrow selection method as long as the results work well for .... you.

[Zach Mikita]

I have a spine calculator that I dont rely on to the exact science, but I use it to get close and work from there.  If you are interested in the calculator search google Dynamic Spine Calculator.  I used your info and this is what I would suggest.  400 Carbon 29.75" with 200gn tip that puts you at 480gn total arrow weight (average) and 20% FOC.  This is what the calculator suggestss so what I would do is start with 31.25" arrow with 200gn and bare shaft tuning.  Shoot at 10 and 20 yards (be careful at 20 yards,  an arrow with a higher FOC tends to straigten the arrow out, so be sure to shoot at 10 yards also).  This site has been an amazing tool to learn from.  Everyone does things different, you need to find what works for you and stick with it and dont give up.  Finding an arrow can take a long time! Good Luck