Anyone out there use climbing spurs to get up the tree?

[bigbellybuck]

By the way,which types of trees do you like to use them on, and which types do you avoid?

[crookedwoody]

Iam a journeyman lineman for constrution co. in Illinois.been climbing poles for 20 years.when you cut out you come down hard.even with a belt you cant get stopped.

I also beleive you will kill the trees,by climbing and drilling holes.I think climbing stands are the way to go.what would you do with your hooks  when you get there?and what if you drop one?one fall could cost you everything.well good luck on your decision.hope you make the right one for you..chris

[Warren H. Womack]

I'm 65 years old, have been climbing with hooks since the early 70's and I'm very comfortable using them. But, I do want to caution you that they are not for everyone.

For anyone that has never used them, there is a leaning curve that deals as much with gaining confidence in the hooks as climbing technique. Even though they are my primary way to hang a treestand I still don't go out of my way to recommend them to hunters. They can be extremely dangerous even for an experienced climber.

Climbing practice, helps you to gain confidence that the gaffs will not cut out on you. I will say that every time you use them it gets easier and you become more confident.

When you first start climbing with them, I would suggest, just climb up a few feet then come back down. Also take short steps that track about 10" apart and don't hug the tree. All the climbing is done with your legs. You use your hands, not your entire arms, to maintain an upright position and in contact with the tree.  

When hanging a stand you need to hang it below your climbing belt lanyard. Doing this you don't have to disconnect to step on to the stands platform.

Once again, they are not for everyone but they are certainly a light, quick, portable, way to hang a stand on most any size tree with or without limbs. Just beware of climbing cypress trees. If you don't set the gaffs good they will peel in a heart beat.

[gregg dudley]

Gerber saws could be a thread of their own!  Best thing since sliced bread.

[sethdiggs]

X2 on the gerber saws. My dad has an older one, but the same design as a new one, and it will cut through small branches in seconds.

[NoCams]

sethdiggs,
They will also go thru thumb meat in less than seconds !!! I did it to myself two years in a row and left a pretty decent blood trail to boot.

Never, I repeat, never hold the branch you are cutting with one hand and saw with the other. The saw will jump out or you will get the hand in the way while the saw is still moving and it is a tenacious little booger that does not know the difference between wood and meat, nor does it care !

crookedwoody,
the friend who turned me on to the woodpecker drill told me he has seen no harm to trees he drilled years ago. He also told me that after a year if you wanted to hunt that tree again you would have to re-drill since the tree would fill those holes back in. This will be my second year with the woodpecker so I will report my findings back once I see for sure.

Never seen a tree that someone climbed with spurs for a season, but I do know that the white oaks we climb with our Summit Vipers show a little wear during season. The seem to heal up during the off season.

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[JC]

Good to see you again Mr. Womack! 20,000 members here missin your schoolin.

[Landshark160]

I have never seen the Woodpecker drill do any harm to a tree. I have been using one since 1991. You will have to redrill the trees each year as the holes grow over. Jerry Simmons had a 4" sapling in his yard that he had drilled, I think, 60+ holes in. It never showed any signs of harm done and remained perfectly healthy.

[NoCams]

Chris,
do you redrill the exact hole each year ? Was wondering if that hole would still be a good solid hole and support your weight ? If not, do you drill a few inches away from the old hole ? Again, this will be year 2 for me with the woodpecker so I will be redrilling some of my trees.

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[Landshark160]

I drill all new holes.  Just move it over an inch or two.  The old holes are still good and solid to support your weight, but the drill can't pull itself into the hole to clean it out.  The holes seem to grow over starting at the outside of the hole, near the bark.  The rest of the hole fills in with sap.  If you try to redrill them, your drill will start to cut, but when it runs out of the new growth, the worm on the end of the bit will no longer have anything to bite into.  You can put some pressure on it and force it on into the hole, but it's usually easier to just drill new ones.

[NoCams]

Thanks Chris, I figured that, just wanted to hear from someone with experience.


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[DW]

I agree with Chris on the Wood pecker...Jerrys technique was as Chris descibes...... as good as it gets for Mobile white tail hunting...... My Dad used to help Jerry Simmons sharpen BH's, assemble Quivers, and Such....We discussed the Woodpecker a lot because Jerry had a lot of trouble getting "GOOD" drill bits....He also showed us his technique many times in the woods.. A good man who got the bowhunting fire started in me a long time ago.....