arrow spine - adjust for weight or high spine ?

[newtradgreenwood]

Just got my new Ace Spine Master.  Have some Grizzly Alaskans and some Hickory shafts. Throw out two of the hickories and both sets of arrows vary about 5 lbs. in spine (70 - 75 lbs.).  Both sets of arrows have high spines sides that are about 2 lbs. more than the low spine sides.  

Question. Do I put all of the high spines in towards the riser (and have the 5 lbs. variance in each set - 70 to 75 lbs.); or, do I put some high spines in ( weaker 70 lbs. shafts) and some low spines out (the heavier end 75 lbs. shafts) and try to adjust to 72.5 lbs. for all of the shafts ?

[Orion]

Not sure I understand your question.  However, the general rule is to orient the grain of the shaft so it is perpendicular to the arrow plate.  That usually results in what would be  the high spine side as well against the plate, but not always.  Hickory is very tough and hard to break so you could slightly rotate the shafts to get the spines closer.  In practice, though, I doubt you'll be able to tell the difference in 2-3# of spine.  Good luck.

[newtradgreenwood]

Thanks for the reply.  

If I orient the spines all in the same grain direction relative to the bow the spine differences for the set of arrows will be about 5 lbs. (tad more actually because I generalized to try & make the question simpler). If I rotate away from the grain slightly on some of the arrows I can get the spine differences down to 1 lb. for the set.

[newtradgreenwood]

Orion, I understand what you are saying about small differences.  I was surprised and pleased at how consistent the wood arrows I got from Allengeheny (sp ?)arrows in PA. Weight, spine, straightness, everything.  I'm new at trad & want to learn & understand.  Just trying to reduce variables to the extent possible & then go have fun & not worry about it, & I need to get alot better at shooting to even notice several pounds of spine difference any way !  Looking forward to getting out & meeting other traders in the Greenwood/Lees Summit/Kansas City area.  Take care.

[pointystick]

Originally posted by Orion:
 the general rule is to orient the grain of the shaft so it is perpendicular to the arrow plate.  That usually results in what would be  the high spine side as well against the plate, but not always.  

Isn't this also dictated by nock placement on the shaft?  I've always been told to place the nock "against" the grain of the shaft, so with the nock aligned with the string ( so the slot in the nock is parallel to the plate), the grain of the shaft would run perpendicular to the plate, as you say. How much offset is acceptable between nock position and shaft grain? I always set my nock so the slot is 90 degrees to the grain. Would, say, 45 degrees be sufficient?   :confused:

[Art B]

Do you have some way to check for straightness? Unless your shafts are very straight then you won't get an accurate reading all the way around the shaft. This could be the differences you're seeing. As has been mentioned, get the edge of the growth ring against the bow's plate. The arrow only fuctions in two planes (for best performance). So set the flat growth ring at 6 and 12 o'clock and the edge of the growth ring (or edge grain) at 3 and 9 o'clock.

Any difference in spine can be sanded down to the lowest spined shaft for a more matched set. Or differences in spine around the shaft (shaft must be very straight to do this) can also be equalled out with a little sanding to the offending side.

ART B

[aromakr]

Most likley the difference of 2# will not be of any concern, however that will depend on  the bow you are shooting. If its center cut or past center don't worry about the difference. If its a self-bow way less than center it could be a problem.

Guy's in this day and age of high tech, some are trying to make this sport much more techinical than it really is. Most bows will shoot equally well a pretty good range of spines. All my bows are less than center and will shoot 10-15# range.
Bob