POC rookie....

[SirRobin77]

Ok i bought some poc shafts that are spined at 55-60 lbs. My bow is 54lbs at 30" however i only pull it to 29".  I assummed
these 55-60 lbs shafts would work fine am i correct?Ill be using a 150 grn point with them and the bare shaft weighs about 400 grains.
I have several questions about cedar since i have never used it.
1. Is it ok to cut the nock into the shaft as long as i wrap it with sinew?
Do i cut the nock across the grain?
2.Do you heat straighten these like cane shafts?
3. On 9 of the 12 shafts i have the grain seems to have places where it runs out mid way or 3/4 of the way down the shaft
is that ok. These are not gonna break when i shoot them are they?These are pre spined archery shafts from from 3 rivers.
Thanks Matt

[Hot Hap]

Don't know what your bow type and specs are, but they sound too light in spine to me. Hap

[Orion]

They'll probably work.

Yes, you cut the nock perpendicular to the grain.  Cut the nocks in the end of the shaft that has the straightest grain.  They should also be the straightest end of the shaft.  That way you won't have trouble straightening them there when the feathers are on.

Most POCs can be straightened without heat.  However, for substantial bends near the ends, heat helps.

If the grain is running completely off the shaft, it's pretty bad grain.  Such arrows are definitely weaker than shafts in which the grain runs true the entire length of the shaft.

[frank bullitt]

Matt, what cedar and you have cane


Matt, cedar and you have cane? We need to get together!  Guru, has a thread on staightening shafts with compression, look it up! Grain runout is critical with cedar, do you have pics?


/

[SCATTERSHOT]

The riff (those points you see where the grain runs out) should point to the front of the arrow, like this >>>>>>>>>>>> on top when the arrow is nocked.

When you cut your nocks, cut them across the grain, and wrap them as you have stated.

Leave the arrows longer than you think you'll need, and experiment with length and point weight for best flight. If they are too weak, you can build out your arrow plate to compensate.

You didn't mention what type of bow you have, but a recurve is cut closer to center than a longbow, and will require a stiffer arrow.

Good luck!

[SirRobin77]

Hey Scattershot i have 2 longbows. One is a Ash Cherokee style bow with no riser and very little tapper at the limbs. This bow is 54lbs @30" but like i said i only pull it to about 29". The other is a 60 year old osage orange selfbow thats 40lbs @28". Neither bow have arrows shelves or rests i just shoot off the hand.
Thanks Matt

[SCATTERSHOT]

Those shafts might be a little stiff, then, but you never know until you shoot it. Target points are available up to 190 grains, and you can fiddle with various things to get even heavier.

Shoot them first, though. Anybody else's answer is just a guess.

Good luck!

[Pat B]

Leave the arrows full length. Their spine weight is for a 28" arrow with a 125gr point. For every inch over 28" you can subtract 5# of spine weight. Adding more than 125 gr point will decrease the spine weight also.

[SirRobin77]

Hey they are 32" long and i would rather keep them that long if thats possible with out being dangerous. Like i said im shooting a 50lbs bow.
 I shot one today full length (32") with a 100 grn practice point and it seemed to fly good.
Matt

[Pat B]

No danger in keeping them long and you can always cut them off a bit at a time to tune them if needed. With selfbows, you generally want arrows spined 10# or less than the draw weight. Also the extra length helps them get around the bow.