single bevel sharpening

[newtradgreenwood]

How & when is the back or flat edge of a single bevel sharpened ? I have some new 1000/4000/8000 waterstones & a KME broadhead sharpener.  Go threw all the grits on the bevel & then the back ?  Alternate sides all the way through the grits ?  With the grain/blade or up/down for the back side ?

[Ray Hammond]

you lay a file flat on a table, and lay the head flat on the file, and draw it back to front, once you have sharpened the beveled side. That creates the foil edge, which can then be removed with leather, cardboard, etc.

[joebuck]

Ray brings up a great point here....CARDBOARD....you don't see many people talk about it here when sharpening comes up  .it is a great honing finish material

[sweeney3]

Cardboard?  Really?  I would not have thought that.  I usually use a damp leather belt.  Neat.

[owlbait]

Ron from KME showed me the cardboard trick. Really finishes the edge.

[Daddy Bear]

On the Grizzly, I save the hones for when I’m honing the final edge.  I use a file to remove the initial amount of excess hard steel needed to form an edge.  Easy task with a great file, but a hard task with a junk file, poor technique, or using a hone to set the bevel.

The copper brazing technique used will often leave an excess of build-up on the flats.  I generally remove this excess on the flats and I dress the bevel backside completely flat before I begin work on the bevel.  I use an Ashby style file to set the bevel holding the desired angle until the bevel runs all the way to the edge for the length of the cutting surface.  I then change to a less aggressive file and develop the edge until a burr is formed running the length of the edge.  At this point, I can either remove the burr and develop a great edge with light strokes from the correct file by building a burr from the bevel side followed by removing the burr from the back side.  Or, I can develop an insanely keen edge by switching to the hones using the same technique.  I always finish the edge with cardboard.  

But as to the backside, I ensure it is flat and even first, and then I’ll go to it again later to remove the burr I’ve raised the length of the edge.  You must use the correct tools for the task unless you desire to chase your tail in circles.

Best

[Mo. Huntin]

I wish I could sharpen a single bevel.  One day I will take another shot at it.  I am a little envious of your file work, I have a hard time with a file.  I thought about trying to rig a file copying the lansky system but bigger but I am happy with my double bevel for now.  I would like to have that skill so I could help others and give them dudes a try myself.

[Pat B.]

Grab yourself a 3 pack of ABowyers. The steel is super and takes a fine edge, just like a good knife. If you can sharpen a double bevel you can do a single. Just do 95% of the sharpening on the bevel side and 5% on the flat side.. I get them as sharp as any Silver Flame ever made.

[Fletcher]

Mo., there is tool called the Lil Shaver that is just what you are looking for: a Lansky with a file.  It maintains the edge angle and does a fine job.  File sharpening isn't hard, it just takes a little practice and technique.  Learn to keep the angle consistent and the pressure very light.  DO NOT rock the file or draw it backwards across the edge.

[Ray Hammond]

sharper, I'm betting, Pat B.

I know mine are.  Ask any woodworker or Japanese Sushi chef what the sharpest instrument in the world is and you will get a quick, and unequivocal answer- a chisel for the woodworker, and a Kataba, or single edge-sharpened knife for the Sushi chef.

[Mo. Huntin]

thanks fletcher.

[Ray Hammond]

guys, its actually easier to draw the head across the file, than to move the file across the head.

If you are finding it challenging try that.. and also remember that once your bevel angle is changed you really don't have to hit it hard at all with the file to resharpen the head..just some light strokes with just the weight of the file and no real arm/hand pressure to speak of...

[Ray Hammond]

I had some of the original version abowyer heavy heads to try out- the first one out of the pack the edge curled on a hog.

I understand the steel has been changed, but at 26 bucks for 6 grizzlies and five minutes per head to change the angle....I just can't justify changing heads to achieve.... no difference for me.

But that's why they make different stuff, cause each of us has different experiences.

Whatever you shoot, just make sure its sharp, and you will be fine. Sharp is subjective, but if you are not afraid to rub your fingers up and down your blade edges, they ain't sharp enough to hunt with...

[joebuck]

Alaska Bowhunting Supply  has a NEW sharpening wheel out. Thats all i use from my Heinkle knives to silver flames to ashbys to pocket knives. One wheel is 240 grit and other is PAPER....you can sharpen a single bevel in under a minute to sticky sharp. Silver Flame ..90 seconds tops......it is so simple.....if your sharpening challenge? BUY IT......then call me when you get it....I'll walk you through it, but you probably wont need it........trust me

[Wolfkiss]

Here's what works for me.

Use the file to achieve required bevel.

My hones are the same thickness as my file  and allow me to use the ferule as the angle guide.


 


 


Swap the file for a hone and you can get a burr like tin foil to knock off. You can hear the hairs 'ping' of my arm after it has been stropped on a piece of leather.


 


I had to bevel the back of the tip on this broadhead to bring it inline with the rest of the blade. I think the grizzly broadhead is tripple thick for two thirds of the blade instead of just the tip like this one.


Hope this helps, Andy.