Help me convert from aluminum to wood and/or carbon

[bgremill]

Alright folks.  I'm shooting 30.5" 2117's with 125gr points.  They absolutely fly like darts.  I've purchased a few wood arrows, 60-65 and 65-70 and 125, 145, and 160 gr field points.  I also have a bare axis 400 full length that shows weak.
Woodies first.  I bought a raw shaft that is 64# and one that is 70#.  Can I cut to length and taper the shafts for bare shaft purposes without sealing them?  If I do need to seal them, How much thinner should I put in the fletch lac?
Carbons.  Is it true that spine of carbons are better tuned using length rather than weight?  So, if I get them flying well with the 125gr points at a certain length, they will also fly well with more weight added?  The reason I ask is because the insert is already in the shaft.  
thanks for your help and suggestions

[bgremill]

Forgot to include bow setup.  Bob Lee recurve 50#@ 28 drawn to 29.5 so I figure about 54#'s.  Roy Hall Caddo 54#@28 also drawn to 29.5" so I figure about 58#'s.

[elkken]

On the woodies I don't think you need to seal them to tune and I would think your 65-70's would be a great start.

On carbon if the inserts are already in you can cut the knock end to tune them. And yes length matters more than weight, but thats just my limited experience. If you want durability and arrows that can fly like "darts" carbon is good, but nothing is better than a beautifully made wood arrow.

You have a few nice bows to work with... good luck

[jimmerc]

I shoot a 55# recurve drawn to29" and this shoots 70/75 woodies cut at 30.25 with 160gr tip perfect as far as carbons I'm still working on these!! Hope this helps!!

[jonsimoneau]

Bgremill, I would bet that you will need a heavier spine arrow than that. I agree with Elkken, you'll wanna start at around 65-70s, and I would not be surprised if you had to go up from there even. Good luck

[George D. Stout]

You will have to try the woods, they are more forgiving of spine than any other material, so you could be right on with the 70#.  You won't have to cut cedars, just taper them...they come 32" full length.

Carbons are stiff as heck and you must tune them by length and point weight.  Frankly I would be the last one to talk you out of aluminums.  I love those things and use them for their consistency from shaft to shaft.

[bgremill]

Thanks guys!  I'm getting closer but not there yet.  I have the carbons flying right into the center of my aluminum groups; but, the woodies are everywhere.  I just bought another 2 doz aluminum b/c they are by FAR the best flying shafts I've shot through my bows.  So good in fact that it's boring!  Guess that's why I wanted to tinker!  I'll keep working on the woodies til I get them perfect.

[James Wrenn]

Carbons are easy.Put the point weight you want to shoot on the axis and trim the back of the arrow a little at a time untill it gets right.You can trim carbons from either end so the insert being glued in is no problem.Tune it with the weight you will use.Changing weight after it is tuned will throw the spine off like any other arrow reguardless of what you might read. jmo