Experience So Far, and Arrow Observation/Advice

[Ray D.]

Hello, everyone.  Very helpful site.  I'll try to keep this brief.

New to traditional archery, and wanted to share experiences so far and get a little advice.

Getting a starter bow, and after much research (including this site), have decided to go with a Martin Savannah, 45# at 28",with my draw being about 29".  Plan to order it in the next day or two from 3 Rivers. Use is mainly target/recreation, as opposed to hunting.

Choosing a bow has been very difficult (in a good way):  Many, many choices; many options within each choice; and prices ranging from "is that all" to "are  you kidding."  I followed the advice of many of you and picked what I think is a good non-custom bow at a draw weight that was reasonable but not so much that I would have to fight it.  By the way, I'm average size (5'10", 190 lbs), in good health, and in reasonably good shape, so if you think 45# is too little, let me know.  I tried that draw weight at a local archery shop and it seemed OK.  Also prefer American-made.

Along with the bow, I'll be getting a glove and a tab (seems like it would be good to try both) and a bow stringer.  Future purchases will include a quiver.

I also wanted to get arrows, but that's where the advice comes in.  There are an amazing number of options here, and all my reading and researched has left me spinning;  Wood, aluminum, carbon; spine weight, total arrow weight; inserts, tips, fletching; test sets or by the dozen.  And doesn't anyone sell pre-assembled arrows in small quantities (less than 12)?  I thought the archery shop would, but they looked at me like I was crazy and/or stupid (just went to one shop, though).  Went to the usual suspects in terms of arrows (Easton, Elite, Gold Tip, Carbon Express, and Border, plus a few others I can't remember).

What I think I need is:

--30" length (for my draw of 29")
--400 to 550 grain total weight
--0.400 to 0.500 spine (spine weight?)
--3" or 4" fletching
--125 grain tip
--If carbon, 35-55 arrows
--If aluminum, 1916, 2016, or maybe 2018

It looks like some places will sell test sets, so I'm guessing that's the way to go.  But in that case, it seems like I'd need to buy shafts, inserts, tips, and fletching all separately (although some seem to be pre-fletched and to have inserts already in them, but some don't seem to have either).

Seem like a good choice on the bow for a beginning, and heading in the right direction on the arrows?  Or time to re-group and re-think?

[tomyhawk]

Welcome
I have a 48# marriah Chinook longbow 64"er.  My draw is 28.5 arrows are 29".
It likes  axis 500;s
shoots 1916's like a bullet
shoot both 3 and 4 fletch both 4" and 5" the 3" don't work very well for me.
Use 125 gr point's
The 35 - 55 are to stiff for my set up.
Hope this helps.

[Killdeer]

I think you have approached this very wisely. At your draw, the Savannah should be giving you about 48 pounds, so even if you wished to use it for hunting, you would be good to go for most large game.

I would start with aluminums, for the cost and consistency benefits, and suggest a 2016 for your longer length.

Killdeer    

[metsastaja]

Sounds like you are having fun and doing a lot of research.  

There is a dynamic spine calculator developed by Stu Miller that could help you with arrow selection.  I as well as many others have used it with great success in making arrow selection.

It runs using microsoft excel.  The most recent version can be downloaded here.    http://www.heilakka.com/stumiller/

Stu will be releasing a newer version in a couple of weeks wiht additional arrows and a few more tweaks.  

Have fun

Les Heilakka

[foxfire]

second the above and suggest NOT
cutting any arrows until you are certain
you are "dialed in" . sure is hard to
add the lenght back on ....

[DesertDude]

Ok Here's my take and arrow selection. Since your going to shoot the bow mostly for target I would stay in the 10 grains per pound area (around 480gr) I would use a 500 spine with about 200-250gr up front (depending on arrow tuning. This is for a carbon shaft. GT/Beman/CE/ so on all make good shafts for your needs.

[martin guy]

I would look on the classifieds, you can usually pick up a Savannah very reasonably priced.

[Ray D.]

Hello again.  Just updating you on what's going on.  The short version is that I went with the Savannah, but I went with a 40#, rather than a 45#, and I ordered it through a sorta-local archery shop.

I didn't mention it in my original post, but aside from research, one of the reasons I came to an on-line forum is that I had a bad experience when I visited what I had considered "my local archery shop." I'll skip the details, but basically they were more entertained than helpful regarding my inexperience, and I got "you don't really want a longbow" before they even asked me any questions.

Anyway, found another shop a little less-local, and they gave me what I was looking for in terms of patience, help, and advice.  I ordered the Savannah through them (equivalent price to on-line, although the tax brought it up a bit), and they'll help me with the arrows and such.  I ended up going with a 40#, rather than a 45#, after pulling on a 40#.  I should get it next week.

Thanks for your replies and the advice, and I'll keep you posted.

[James Wrenn]

Smart move on going with the lighter bow for your first.I am sure you will really enjoy it.

[George D. Stout]

Absolutely, and you will find it may be more like 43/44 pounds anyway.  Have them scale it at your draw when you get it.   I would also go with aluminum, I'm using the newer black Gamegetter shafts, $39.99 a dozen at several of our sponsors.  They are durable, and you don't have to weigh the ends so heavily.

A 1916 at 30" with 125 grain points will be pretty darned close to perfection from that critter.

[30coupe]

Originally posted by George D. Stout:
Absolutely, and you will find it may be more like 43/44 pounds anyway.  Have them scale it at your draw when you get it.   I would also go with aluminum, I'm using the newer black Gamegetter shafts, $39.99 a dozen at several of our sponsors.  They are durable, and you don't have to weigh the ends so heavily.

A 1916 at 30" with 125 grain points will be pretty darned close to perfection from that critter.

Yup!    

[Ray D.]

Thanks for the info.

Do a lot of traditional archers buy shafts, points, fletching, etc. and put their own arrows together, once they've tuned and found the right arrow?  Or is that kind of like reloading with the gun folks:  Not necessarily a bad idea if you shoot a lot, but not something your average shooter does?  It's a little hard to tell from what I've been reading:  People discuss shafts, points, etc. a lot in their posts, but I can't tell if most of them select the pieces and have someone else put the arrow together, or if they do it all themselves.

[Mo. Huntin]

I hear you man a couple shops around here try to make you feel like an idiot no matter what you shoot compound or longbow.  I just like building my own arrows so I don't have to deal with them and also it is more convenient.

[George D. Stout]

The sport lends itself to the do-it-yourself guy.
You can get a fletcher for under $30.00, and a 100 feathers (4 or 5 inch) for about $25.00'ish.  A tube of glue or fletching tape and you are ready.

The nice thing about doing it yourself is you can choose your own colors; degree of offset or helical you want; nock orientation, etc.  Makes you feel a little better also when you know that's one more thing you don't need someone else to do for you.

[Ray D.]

Just to close this out, I got the bow and should be getting the arrows shortly.  Also picked up the necessary accessories (glove, tab, stringer, etc.).

The bow is beautiful, by the way: Literally, it looks like something you would display, not use.  Very happy with my choice, even though I have many, many things to learn --wasn't even holding the bow properly, I'm embarrassed to say, and had a heck of a time trying to draw the bow and keep the arrow from slidiing off while I was at the shop.  Thankfully, I WAS at a shop, and they were very nice about going over the basics with me. Although I did notice people kind of stepped back whenever I raised the bow . . . .

I got a few pre-made arrows while at the shop based on their recommendationsand then I ordered some 1916's and 2016's so I can experiment a bit.

Thanks again for the advice.