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Author Topic: spine question  (Read 286 times)

Offline inthere10x

  • Trad Bowhunter
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  • Posts: 211
spine question
« on: September 03, 2009, 10:31:00 PM »
I'm shooting a Leon Stewart longbow #54@28", 1/8" cut pass center w/ fast flight. My draw lenght is 27". My arrows are GT 5575 29.75" with 245 up front. I checked Stu spine calculator my bow was rated at 68.3 and the arrows 52.5, does that sound right?
I guess if I want to keep the high FOC weight I need to move into 7595 shaft? Any suggestions or does my setup sound ok?

Offline zwickeyman

  • Trad Bowhunter
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  • Posts: 234
Re: spine question
« Reply #1 on: September 04, 2009, 09:10:00 AM »
Have you bare shafted these and do they shoot a little to the right?

Offline DanDaMan

  • Trad Bowhunter
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  • Posts: 143
Re: spine question
« Reply #2 on: September 04, 2009, 09:19:00 AM »
If you are shooting the GT trad shafts then there is a huge difference between the 55/75 and 75/95 shaft.  55/75 is a .400 spine and 75/95 is a .300.  the regular shafts the 75/95 is .340.  If you want something just a touch stiffer then you may want to checkout the CE heritage 250's which spine at .373.  For the record my bows drawn to my 29 1/8 inch draw length all shoot the .340 MFX classics with 300gr up front.  It sounds like you should be pretty good so if you are getting good BH flight then why sweet it.  I have a couple CE 250s I could send ya if you want to try them.
Dan
Horne Mountain bow 60in 57@29
Horne Combo Hunter Longbow 64in 59@28
Dryad Orion Longbow  60in 60@28
Hoots 54in 48@28

Offline hkmp5

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 48
Re: spine question
« Reply #3 on: September 04, 2009, 10:10:00 PM »
Hello,
Assuming you have a thin strike plate I ran the numbers at -1/16" cut and cam up with 63.3# for your bow setup.  Based on that your hightly front loaded arrow does sound a bit weak.  To test this without permanently modifying anything, try building out the strike plate surface to about +1/16" (just shy of center-cut).  The true test would be to shoot that setup with bare shafted vs. fletched arrows.  They should group together and then you will know that they are correctly tuned.  If moving out the shelf position works then you can leave it like that or you could move the strike plate back to the -1/16" original position and shorten your arrow length to 28.5".....should get the same results!

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