Need Woodchuck Taper Tool advice

[Roy from Pa]

I have had this tool for a few years now and I love it, but it seems I hardly ever get a clean even edge at the back of the taper on the shafts when doing the point or nock ends. The nock ends come out pretty good, but the point ends give me fits. I almost always get that one side of the shaft that has the taper running a little further up the shaft. I cut the shafts off with a chop saw and they are nice and square with the shaft. Tonight I got the idea to grind a point on the little brass rod that acts as a stop for the shaft. I adjusted it so it aligned with the center of the end of the shaft and that did help a little. I understand that if the shafts are not straight I will get the odd taper on one side. But I have done shafts that are very straight and still can not get the perfect cut. Any suggestions would be appreciated.. Thanks Roy

[Jim now in Kentucky]

If the moisture content of the shafts has changed markedly since they were milled, they can be out of round, which will definitely give an irregular line to the back end of the taper.

Also, you have to keep them turning anytime they are in contact with the sanding disk.

[Roy from Pa]

Thanks Jim. I have been through hundreds of arrows with this tool. I get my shafts from suppliers who advertise on this site. I understand how out of round could do this and that could be it. All the shafts I have been through couldn't have been crooked.

[Molson]

My theory on this is that the sanding disk both fills and empties dust while you grind which leads to the uneven tapers.  It's just a hunch, but I get much more even tapers when I go slow and don't bog down the wheel.  I usually finish my tapers with hand sanding and a light burnish at the edge of the taper to make a nice, smooth transition to the shaft.

[Roy from Pa]

Do you guys keep the wheel even with the guide groove or is your wheel angled? Thanks

[Forester]

Good morning Roy,

I have used the Woodchuck quite a bit and really like it.  I have run into the same as you and found the same as the others.  It's probably an out of round problem and not a crooked problem.  I always noticed it most on the "out of round" strong grain on Douglas fir.  Keep the shaft constantly turning and feed it in slow and steady. To solve the aesthetics of this problem I always grind on raw shafts and stain after tapers are done.

I have adjusted my wheel to open the angle slightly more than square.  When I started with the Woodchuck I just spent some time playing with point tapers and how they fit in different points.  I finally went so far as to fill points with modeling clay and use those clay tapers to set the wheel position.  This gave me the "perfect" taper and I allowed a litle for glue.  Then I ground a few wood shafts and keep them in my tackle box for use as a template if I move the wheel.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

another reason I like hexshafts, I have yet to see an out of round shaft.

[Art B]

Hey Roy, you're going to pull your hair out once you start tapering those cane shafts he he! But seriously, I know what you're saying. It's hard to put even pressure on your shaft as you turn it. That's what's causing your problem. Soooo, just put some uneven pressure on the shaft for the offending side. Real hard to explain though, but you try to cup or bend your shaft as it lays in you groove so as to put more of the heel of the taper of the offending side against the wheel. Only rotate your shaft against your wheel enough to take care of the problem area.

[Roy from Pa]

Howdy Forester and Art. Thanks..