5575 Gold Tips

[tex-archer]

I was wondering if anyone else has a set up similar to mine. I am shooting a 52 pound long bow with Gold Tip 5575's cut 28 3/4" long. I am using 125 grain tips with only 78 grains of extra weight added behind the point. I have shot both bare shafts and broadheads at 22 yards and all are hitting the same. The reason I ask is because I see alot of guys adding 200 grains or more up front. Is my set up not correct? Do I need more weight??

[Bowhunter4life]

If it ain't broke don't fix it...  And with your 78 grains behind the point you are above 200 grains up front.  Have to add the insert too...

Shoot what shoots the best out of your bow, a lot depends on centershot or lack there of with each particular bow also.  

Sounds like you have found the combination that works for you, stick with it.  I'm a tinkerer, and like to try a lot of different things, but when I find a combination that shoots where I look time and time again I set it aside and stick with it for that particular bow.  I'll even write it down so I don't forget what works.

Best, Jeff.

[Otto]

Your set up is fine.  I shoot 5575's cut to 30.5 (I have a 29.5" draw) with just the aluminum insert and a 145 gr. snuffer.

[redant 60/65]

Dave
I think you'll find out that adding weight up front on your GT's dosn't change the spine very much. I shoot 29" 5575 with a 100 gr. insert and 125 field points and also 100gr. points, no real change. And DesertDude does the same thing he adds 150 or 200 field point with a 100gr. insert, the only real change is arrow weight and arrow speed.

[Gerardo]

i am having problem with fine tuning the 5575, I am shooting a whip longbow 53# at 27 any suggetions, I have played with the weight insert can some on give me some advice, I mostly shoot wooden arrows and tuning carbons is a lot more work

[xtrema312]

I shoot 29 3/4" 5575 trad GT's with 100gr insert and 125 point out of a 52@28 cut to center recure, but I pull just over 29".

A lot depends on the bow and your form.  If you have a cut out from center D shape LB I would have thought it would be way to stiff.  With a fast R/D cut to center or past I would just figure it was the bow and your form.  If it works for you that is great.  

I read someplace the other day on a post where someone was shooting a recurve like 60# or so shooting 3555's with a heavy point.  I don't know what the draw length was on that, but I was a lot more surprised to read that than your spec's.

[xtrema312]

Originally posted by Gerardo:
i am having problem with fine tuning the 5575, I am shooting a whip longbow 53# at 27 any suggetions, I have played with the weight insert can some on give me some advice, I mostly shoot wooden arrows and tuning carbons is a lot more work

Carbons can be fussy about length.  What is your shaft length?  Are you shooting too stiff by chance?

[Gerardo]

I have them at there orignal 32" and playing with heavy inserts , I haven't cut them yet

[redant 60/65]

Gerardo
 I have found that the length of carbon's makes a big difference even a 1/4 inch, but I have only used GT's. I shoot off the shelf and rests.

[tex-archer]

The bow I am shooting is the Kota Prairie Fire. I just thought my shafts would be too stiff but with the results I am getting I'm sticking with them.

[frankwright]

I have found with carbons to err on the light side. The 3555 fly better out of a 53# longbow than the 5575 do.
My arrows are short 28" and that might have something to do with it.
To get the 5575 to fly good with 145 grain broadhead I had to add the 100 gr steel adapter.
This is from a non center cut Hill bow which is less forgiving of arrow selection.

[xtrema312]

Originally posted by Gerardo:
I have them at there orignal 32" and playing with heavy inserts , I haven't cut them yet

Full length you are probably weak if you are loading up the front.  Are you bare shafting?  I don't need heavy inserts or points for way long shafts for bows in that range of draw weight and cut anywhere close to center.  What I find is a real long shaft out front of the riser when drawn shows much weaker than one cut closer to draw length based on calculations.  There is something about a lot of extra shaft out there and more point weight that has a different effect for me.  Once I get the shaft down in the .5-1" longer than draw range it starts to act more predictable with point weight and length changes.  I can tune a long one, but it seems to be a little harder to do with point weights.  They react much more to length changes.  

If I were you I would take two fletched shafts and one bare shaft.  Cut them down to about 30” and start working with point weights to get tuned.  Try something about 200-225 point weight and work up and down to find a tune.  If you want a shorter arrow with more point weight slowly cut down and tune with point weights working to what you want.

I think with only a 27” draw and a long bow a 500 or 3555 spine arrow would have been a better choice to get a shaft down to about 28”.