New ILF Longbow

[Whitetail Chaser]

I paired up a TradTech Black Onyx riser with a set of their wood/glass longbow limbs.  I'm a first-timer with this ILF stuff, so I hope I can get the hang of all the adjustments.  I'll chime back in after I shoot it this morning.

Brett

 

[Dave Bowers]

Thats a beauty, can't wait to hear how it shoots. I am gonna be getting either recon or the onyx riser this winter.

[smokin joe]

That's one of the nicest looking take-down longbows I've seen. I like the wood color combination and the forward grip looks great. Congratulations. Let us all know how it shoots for you.
Joe

[Whitetail Chaser]

Okay, Just got in from shooting, and it is a smooth shooter.  Tiller is set even and the nock point is 3/8" above.  I have not tinkered with any of the bolts or other settings.

First off, I have no way to measure draw weight, arrow speed, or noise.  I will say that at 46-47# this bow shoots a 460 grain arrow fast and quiet.  The brace is set at 8 1/2 inches.  Seems to shoot just fine for me.  

The grip on the riser is nice (not perfect), and the limbs are good.  I will say that the finish on the limbs has a few flaws.  They are also the cheapest ILF longbow limbs availabe (I believe).

My total investment was under $500.  I would love to pair up a Morrison Mini-14 with some Morrison Carbon Foam longbow limbs, but that combo is out of my price range (for now).

What sort of adjustments can I make to the bow to make it smoother at my 29 inch draw?

Brett

[R H Clark]

Back both limb bolts out a little for smoother draw.Unless you shoot 3 under you might like a 1/8" pos tiller a little better.I set all my ILF's even for 3 under.

Don't know how much you can back off the limb bolts but you should see some change with just a half turn each.

[Whitetail Chaser]

I adjusted for a Pos 1/8 inch tiller.  Do I have to remove the bolts completely to re-set them at the lowest weight for the bow?

[R H Clark]

I am not familiar with that riser.All the ILF risers I've had,I would just adjust with the bow strung.Make sure to loosen any set screws if you have any that hold the main bolt in place.

Probably safer to unstring first as I have no idea what type of adjustment holds the bolt in place.

An ILF should not be tight like a regular 3 piece take down.The limb needs some room to pivot.It should not be too far let out though as it could cause binding in the slot if you let the limb out too much.

If you can't get proper info from the factory I would sugest to tighten the bolts and let them off one full turn.That would be as tight as I would ever go. Four to five complete turns from tight would be as loose as I would ever go.

[Whitetail Chaser]

Alright, I followed the manual I got with the bow.  Removed the set screws and then backed out the bolts 5 turns (the maximum).  Replaced the set screws.  This is the lowest weight for the bow, right?

I tightened the lower bolt 1/2 turn to give me a positive tiller (about 1/8 inch).  

For a "cheapie" bow, this one seems good.  I have not messed with all the ILF tuning stuff yet, but I am hoping to get the bow set how I like it ant just leave it alone.

Brett

[wisconsin wood butcher]

i have a pinnacle 2 riser and limbs from trad tech i enjoy shooting ti its my first ILF . haven't tried to lessen the wieght yet . shoots real well in the low 50's . amorrison would be though.

[R H Clark]

What you have done sounds good to me.Remember that the adjustments on ILF are there to adjust tiller and set the preload-limb angle to give optimum performance at a particular draw length.Too much and the limbs will stack and possibly become less stable.Too little and you will get less than max performance.

I usally play with mine a few days,set it like I want it and never adjust it again.

[Dave Bowers]

nice little review i appreciate you taking the time to write it.