Need some carbon advice

[PhilNY]

I just ordered a Mojostik from JD.
I shoot 3 under @ 29". The bow is 62" & 45# @ 29"
I will shoot off the shelf and use it mostly for indoor league play.
I have some Carbon Express CX200's at around 30 3/4".
I read here  http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=056375
that the spine is .458 or 69lb.
Can I forward weight this arrow enough for the proper spine & get an arrow at least 400 gr?
I really have no experience in this. In the old days I could get anything to fly with a berger button, but this off the shelf combined with carbon is a mystery to me. I also have some trusty 2016's laying around if the carbon is the wrong spine.

[adirondack46r]

Where's Shawn Leonard when you need him?

[hunt it]

If they are spinned for 69# you may be ok if you add some good weight up front. That shaft should be 340 or so grains so hitting 400 will be easy, but not enough to soften up that shaft. I'd try a few 250gr and 300gr field points and see how they fly. They might just do the trick and you'd be fine. We just did the same for my buddies 47# and once he had the 250's up front they flew just fine.

[PhilNY]

Thank you for the response. I think I can get the brass inserts and a FP test kit from 3R that will get me up to 350gr if needed. Gee and I didn't think these were stiff enough. I don't care how heavy they are since it is going to be 20yds indoor only.

Phil

[PhilNY]

So would the CX200's work better with my 49 or 55 lb bows? I have quite a few of them and would love to get some use out of them.

[pseman]

You can get them to shoot fine out of either bow. Don't cut them any shorter though. The only way to find out exactly what tips you need to shoot is to bareshaft them. Start with 125gr and work your way up in 25gr increments. My guess is that out of the 45lb bow, you will need in excess of 200gr but probably no more than 125-150gr up front from the 55lb bow. Bareshafting is really the only way to know for sure, the rest is just educated guessing. Good luck!

[PhilNY]

Thank you Guys. I think Pseman nailed it. I can't wait for the Mojostik. I have a tough time bareshafting when my form is not up to snuff but I'll start getting ready now and also get the sample test kit for the field points.
Phil

[xtrema312]

I have a mojo and have shot a lot of them of all different lengths and weights.  I have shot a 45#@28 when I was shooting 28.5” draw length.  It shot well with a 29" 500 spine arrow and 225 on the front.  I now draw over 29".  I shoot 29.75” 400 spine in my 55@29 mojo with 200 on the front with a skinny string and 225 with a standard mojo string. They like a little bit of a stiff shaft from what I have seen, but with the larger fur silencers JD uses it will slow the mojo down a little, and make it real quiet.  If you shoot no silencer or real small ones for indoor target shooting it will want a stiffer spine.

For three under I would look at about 7/8” nock height for a start.  It could just be me and my shorter mojo, but my bow likes a fairly high nock set 3 under.  

Form makes a lot of difference as does a lot of other little things, but I would guess 7.5”-8” brace with the fur silencers and about 200 on the front of your shaft.  Work point weights up and down from there to see what you get.  

You will have no problem getting 400 gr. and will likely be closer to 500, and over 500 if you start working that shaft down in length and point weight up as you fine tune.

Get the test kit field points from 3 rivers.  Get two packs while you are at it.  I think I only got two or three of each weight, and more points of each is better for group fletched and bare shaft shooting.  Also get 100 and 50 gr. brass inserts, and hot melt glue.  Now you can make up a lot of combinations.  50 and 100 inserts are not only different weights, but also different lengths, which changes the effective length of the shaft.  You can do a lot of combinations with that stuff, plus the original aluminum inserts.  That is my personal carbon kit of parts, and I use them all at one time or another when tuning carbons.

I have found carbons to be more length then point weight sensitive.  They get fairly predictable when I get down within 1” of my minimum arrow length, but when they are a couple inches longer than needed they act a lot weaker for me.

The last mojo I shot other than my bow was a 62”.  All I can say is WOW!  JD’s bows are very smooth.  My 56” draws like most 60-62” bows I have shot all the way out to 29.5” for me, and I am sure past that.  The 62” is really smooth, fast, and even quieter than his shorter bows.  


JD's bows are really nice so be sure to post up some pic's when you get it.  

[PhilNY]

Thank you.
I have left JD with some artistic licence of his own and all I know is that it will have an ebony riser and either juniper or bocote veneers (whatever looks best) along with a small grip for my small hands.
I will definitly post pics but will have to wait about 6 weeks. And there is always the easy fix XX75 incase carbon is too painfull.
Phil