Newbie who needs a little help

[Scout78]

Hey all,

I'm a newbie to traditional archery. I was able to get my first bow. It's older, but the limbs are straight and everything seems OK with it. I need help getting arrows and set up. I've read a few books on it and been reading the forums but I'm still having a little trouble figuring everything out.

My bow is a Shakespeare 58" AMO 45# @ 28". My wife helped me measure an arrow and at full draw it measures 28 3/4". That was measured right at the edge of the bow.

I also know bareshaft tuning seems to be the best but I don't own any of the fletching jigs or any other stuff to cut them with. The one local archery shop was less than helpful because it's a traditional bow and they're a compound-only shop. I am going to be getting Rick Welch's video soon.

My primary use for this is bowhunting. I'll eventually be getting a newer and better bow and may switch to carbons later, but for this setup I need to stay with the more affordable aluminum arrows.

So with all that said here are my two questions:

Based on my (very limited) understanding of all this I should order something like a 2016 in aluminum Easton, right?

Can I order them to a certain length (1" longer than draw length) to get started and fine-tune everything eventually when I get my anchor and release, etc., down?

Thanks,

Eric

[freefeet]

Hi Eric, and a big welcome to trad!     :D  

I'll let someone else answer about the shafts as i know nothing about aluminium arrows.  But i would suggest that you buy a fletching jig.  I regularly wreck fletching on my arrows and having a fletching jig is indispensable - and in the long run, a big money saver too.

[McDave]

Assuming your 28 3/4 inch draw length is accurate, you're drawing the bow to about 46-47 pounds.  You will probably want your first batch of arrows cut to 30", to allow for a little expansion of your draw length as you get accustomed to the bow.  2016 arrows would be a good start.  You should get some 125 grain points and some 100 grain points (they're cheap), and see which ones fly best.  If the 100 grain points fly best, you probably will want to use a stiffer arrow when you hunt, so you can use 125 grain broadheads.

If you adopt the Welch method of shooting, your draw length is likely to expand even more, unless you're already using his recommended anchor, which is a little further back than the usual corner of the mouth anchor.  On the other hand, Welch recommends shooting with a bent bow-arm elbow, and if you're shooting with a straight elbow, that could reduce your draw length a little.

If with all of these factors, you end up with a 29 1/2" draw length, you will be drawing the bow to maybe 48-49#, and then the 2016's will be too weak.  But by then, some of them will be bent or lost, and you might have a different bow anyway.  I'm sure you'll get plenty of use out of the 2016's in the mean time.

I agree with Freefeet, most of us do get into fletching, to replace damaged feathers if nothing else, but no need to do everything at once.

[DVSHUNTER]

I would go out and buy a cheap tubing cutter, two 2016 and two 2018s and some 145gr. screw in points.  Learn to bareshaft, it is pretty easy and works like a charm. After you find what arrow of the two works the best for you, then buy more of em.  I think that you can get easton gamegetter arrow for $4 a piece, and the cutter is about $5.  Good luck, and welcome to trad hunting.

[straitera]

Welcome Scout. You'll find plenty of help here especially in the archives. Assuming your draw is 29" to the far side of the shelf where the arrow hangs over, add another 1/2"-1" for total arrow length. 2016 is a good solid arrow for your setup. You might find several size & diameter combos to work well from your bow. Try a few as stated above. When happy with the results, buy a dozen or 2. You can cut them yourself with a tube cutter, then grind them perfect and deburr with a brush or wire wheel. Virtually too many options to say which might be best. You're in the ballpark.

[metsastaja]

Eric you may want to read this  http://www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm  a few times for help with the bare shaft tuning.  I shoot carbons so can not help on the alum....