Abowyer screw in prototype pictures!

[Cody Bos]

Mike,
These are a solid one piece head. Thanks

[12ringman]

Make them wider. Lets say 1.5" or more. I would like to shoot a single bevel axe in 200 grain or more.

[Jason Jelinek]

I would like them in 300 gr also.  Nice heads.

[Dave Bulla]

Cody,

Hey, I just wanted to clarify, I didn't mean my post to be any sort of put down on your heads when I was asking about them being a bit rough in texture.  Of course, you took real good macro close up pics and if held "in hand" I might never have noticed.


I've never used single bevels and have never sharpened any.  I consider myself pretty good at sharpening just about anything I've ever tried though.  It's just I had the question about what you do on the unbeveled side if it's not already mirror smooth.  In my mind you'd at least need to come back and do a couple strokes on the flat side to get them sharp or remove the burr.  Is that correct?  Sorry if this has been covered before but like I said, I've never sharpened single bevels.  I'm interested in these though as they look really strong.

Are you able to tell us how the ferrule is attached?  Is it welded, braised etc.?

Hmmm, just had a thought too.  Is the texture I'm seeing really just the teflon coating you mentioned?  I know on a frying pan, it usually has a texture about like a cast iron pan.

Anyway, just wanted to clarify.

As for weight, I'd like to see a selection from 125 to 200+ but I understand that you'd have to change the size or thickness a lot to do that and then it just isn't the same head is it.

[NorthernCaliforniaHunter]

Ditto the call for 150 grainers... Can it be done?

[JimmyC]

Well what do you know, I have all 3 of my bows tuned to work with 250 grain heads!  

I'd be more than happy to test them out, although I'm kind of the Elmer Fudd of archery deer hunters so it could take me a few years to put one through a deer!

[Cody Bos]

Dave,
You are absolutely correct about the single bevel sharpening process. After working the beveled side you do have to do very few strokes on the un-beveled side to remove the burr and achieve optimal sharpness. We usually suggest 95% of the work be done on the bevel side and 5% on the un-beveled side. We are also using a laser weld operation to attach our ferrule. With the paint you saw in the picture the texture came from simply a rush. We did not get to bake the heads for the necessary amount of time to allow the paint to cure. When held in hand the texture is unnoticeable and just seems like any other paint. Lastly we are planning on making a wider range of heads which includes almost all requests that are being made. But we must get our process down with this first head to continue to provide one of the highest quality heads on the market.

Thanks for the comments,

Cody-

[Kevin Dill]

I like the Abowyer lineup. I personally do not like having to glue adapters into my current Abowyer heads...I just have never found a simple and quick method to guarantee perfect spin 100% of time. I also have had adapters separate from the head. None of this is the fault of anyone of course...just the limitations of glue and multiple pieces.

I would request the Wapiti head in 250 gr with Teflon finish. I'm good for an immediate dozen.

I'd like to add: Abowyer is my first serious try with single bevel heads. I can get them as sharp as my double bevel heads with same effort. I see no down side to their use.

Kevin

[Hooked]

Ditto on the 200 grain!  I know you have to make money, but please price them reasonably!  If you do they will fly off the shelf!

[bm22]

If i had to guess on the price, i would say the stainless steel head will be comparable to the other high quality heads ie the ashby head and german kinetics around 25-30$ a pop. I would seriously doubt they would be much cheaper.
They look great, i havent put a photo to photo comparison but it looks like the ashby head. Thats probably not a bad thing.

Love the teflon coating idea i am going to have to buy some more large boneheads soon!!!!

[sinistral]

I have been waiting for your screw in heads. I have heard rumors, and they are true. These look fantastic, and I hope they arrive soon. 250 is good for me. As for carbon we all know how they sharpen up, how well do the stainless sharpen?

[Ray Hammond]

Dave,

I don't know how Cody makes his heads, but I've tried quite a few single bevels out recently.

The uniform action I recommend in "setting up" any head is to flatten the flat side.

What I mean by that is that when you start to sharpen the FIRST thing I recommend is to get that flat side perfectly flat. That will mean removal of paint, sorry to say.

That's easily dealt with when you are through sharpening by application of Chap Stik- to keep it from rusting in the nonstainless models. If its stainless, just make sure you're starting out with a flat "flat" side. You'll put Chapstick on them too, just to keep the edge from oxidizing when you stick it back in your quiver.

Then when you work the beveled side you will only need remove the wire edge, and polish and you will have the sharpest head you've ever shot into an animal.

[Dave Bulla]

Ray, that's pretty much what I was thinking.  I've sharpened cabinet scrapers per Dean Torges instructions and the very first step is to lap the sides and get a polish on them then sharpen the flat of the edge to get it perfectly square and sharp then roll the edge.  Looking at the single bevel heads, I immediately thought of the same process.  A lot like sharpening a blade for a block plane.  Lap the back flat then sharpen the bevel.

I guess if a guy wanted to keep the paint or teflon coating intact, that's where just doing a couple finish strokes from the back side at the end would come into play.  But I bet ya I'd get them sharper the other way...

[TJ Jones]

Looks good. Any idea when these are going to be available?

[Cody Bos]

We are hoping to have these heads available a little after the first of the year.

[Doc Nock]

Originally posted by Ray Hammond:
when you are through sharpening by application of Chap Stik- to keep it from rusting in the nonstainless models.  

It's worth mentioning Charlie Lamb's advice or was it Biggie Hoffman, on another thread about using chapstick?!  Whichever mentioned to be SURE to mark that chapstick and not every use it for your lips..lest you end up with metal filings in your lips.  They wouldn't say how they knew that!  :rolleyes:    

[the longbowkid]

I agre with Don on the fact they should also be offered in at least 175.  I would definitely buy some if they were, since they look like killers!