Glue for brass inserts in carbons

[waknstak IL]

Just wondering what people are using? It seems like folks are using a lot of different stuff. What works good for you?

[Bowana]

I use Ferr L Tite hot melt glue. Never had any problems.

[freefeet]

Clean inserts with meths and place a very small bit of tissue into the hole in the top of the insert to block it - this will stop any excess epoxy flowing down into the threaded area after you've put them into the shafts.

Lightly score the inside of the carbons with a needle file, clean with meths on cotton bud until a clean bud comes out clean, then apply a light smear of araldite inside the shaft where you just scored it and also onto the insert and shove it home.

I put the insert on the floor and press down hard on the shaft to get it fully seated.

Clean of excess epoxy.

Leave standing upright - point downwards - for 48 hours in a warm place to cure fully.

Haven't had one come out yet.

[KentuckyTJ]

I use hot melt also. When I use to shoot Gold Tips I had to sand the inside of the shafts, make sure everything was really clean and epoxy them in or they would pull out. Thats the main reason I switched to Easton Trad Only arrows.

[trapperDave]

JB Weld

[Ragnarok Forge]

I Like 5 ton or 20 ton marine epoxy.  I have had problems with pull outs in the past.  Haven't had any since I started using marine epoxy.  You can buy it at any hardware store with the standard epoxy tubes.

Clean the inside of the shaft and brass insert with acetone,  let dry, put epoxy on insert, sink it home with a good shove, let sit for 5 hours to set.  Good to go.  

I have shot arrows glued up this way with into rebar, bricks, etc...  The epoxy never fails, something else always does.  It is cheap and fast enough for me.

[Buckwheaties]

I have good results with JB Weld and also hot glue(glue gun type,white,craft stuff)not ferrel-tite. too stiff. clean first as above.

[Bear]

Hey Mike. I have had them pull out with everything but epoxy. JB might be overkill, especially if might ever want to remove them. But some two part, 5 ton does well.

[JRY309]

When I install brass inserts I use a two-part 24 hr.epoxy and have never had one pull out.First I'll take the insert and fit it to the shaft.I mount a point in my drill and then screw on the insert and put a slight taper on it with a file where the shaft and insert meet.I do this to remove the little lip that is there on some shafts,some shafts they fit nice and flush.And I'll sand the insert with some 60 to 80 grit sandpaper to give the insert some teeth for the epoxy to hold onto.I'll then etch or scratch the inside of the shaft and then clean the shaft and inserts with alocohol.Then I'll mix up the 24 hr.epoxy and install the inserts.Never lost an insert with the proper prep or had one come loose.I don't like to use any heat,I know alot of guys that use hot melt and I have myself.But there is not a carbon arrow manufacturer out there that recommends any heat used of their shafts.

[SlowBowinMO]

As freefeet mentioned, shaft preparation is important.
 

[Paul Mattson]

One more thing to keep in mind.  I like to make sure that there are no burrs left on the insert.
A lite sanding with 600 grit or a green scrub pad will do.

[Arrow4Christ]

The Steel Force "Beyond Bond" glue has worked very well for me and is almost instant.

Craig

[amicus]

Goat tuff, works great and fast.

[Jeff Strubberg]

Best I've used so far is cyanocrylic.

I know, I know, it's supposed to be brittle.  I was losing inserts left and right using epoxy.  I switched to cyanocrylic and haven't lost an insert in two years.

[fido dog]

Gorilla Glue 2 part epoxy for me. I bought some arrows put together from 3Rivers and the 50gr brass inserts kept coming out. As they did I just epoxied them back in prepping as stated above. No more popping out.

[BWD]

Slow curing two part epoxy for inserts in shafts. JB weld for adapters in broadheads.

[waknstak IL]

When you guys say hot glue do you mean ferreltite or the stuff mama uses in her glue gun making crafts?

[metsastaja]

Shaft and insert Prep are the key.

I use a gun brass brush attached to drill to scuff and clean inside of shafts followed by Qtips dipped in acetone to clean inside of shaft.  
Sandpaper inserts, clean with acetone. Plug hole in back of insert. I then apply 2 part epoxy in shaft and on insert. Push in firm, clean any excess. I then let it sit overnight.
 
HOT glue just does not seem to hold up here in Florida

[Bush]

For whatever reason everytime I tried hot melt for that, that shafts would break right where the insert is.  I'm assuming the hot melt degraded the shaft integrity.  I have never had a problem once I started using epoxy.

[Doc Nock]

I feel wierd. I worked at Kinsey Outdoors in PA, a retail arm of Kinsey Archery.

They used a brown pliable hot melt stick. They sold it and I think it was under Saunder's name.

We didn't clean anything! Freaked me out. They'd cut to length, tap them on the bench to dump out the black powder and we'd use a torch to heat the inert held in pliars, then dip in a small heated pot of "hot melt" all melted up and stick in the shaft and wipe off excess.

Guys were shooting them 10 min later into masonite backstop that was HARD to pull  arrows out. Hardly ever had a insert pull loose.

I've been using it on my GT's. The good news is that I can remove inserts when I want. I've not had any inserts ever pull out at a shoot in any 3D including the hard McKenzie jobs...

Go figure...?