"woodyweights"

[Rob DiStefano]

Originally posted by Spectre:
 

Originally posted by Rob DiStefano:
 

Originally posted by Two Tracks:
How hard is it to get 150-200 grains with that jig Rob?

i never drilled in deeper than 3" and that netted me near 100 grains with a steel nail.  with a 6" bit, careful drilling, and loading with fat lead solder, that should be darned close to 200 grains i'd think. [/b]

Do you have a tutorial here somewhere? That sounds pretty slick. [/b]

i know i wrote up about it somewhere, danged if i can find it now.  if you go on the  www.braveheartarchery.us  website, click on 'arrow building', you'll see these pics that pretty much show it all ....

 

 

 

 

[2treks]

Ok, thanks.
The idea of a footing inside the shafts seems good and desired. The addition of much more than 100gn seems tuff, if you want to maintain the "footing" advantage.The lead soldier would only add weight.
  Dick, The Michigan made Woodie weights go up to 200gns. They glue on just like a field point.
I guess the choices are varied and it will depend on how you want to get to your destination. But, to answer your original question, The woodie weights work well and give you a large varity of quick change options for tuning your arrows.They can be used on any arrow material as well. I think you will enjoy them. And YES! if you load up the front end you can lessen your spine and use the arrows you have. Mike sells a sample pack that will give you a couple of each weight to try and then once you know what you need you can get a pack of that weight.
Chuck
FWIW: I will be ordering the footing jig asap.
I have an idea that I think will be slick.

[2treks]

TTT

[SlowBowinMO]

Originally posted by Stiks-n-Strings:
How does the internal footing effect spine?

Obviously adding front weight can affect your tune, however with the internal weight I find less change than I typically would had I simply added more point weight.  I believe it is because the weight is behind the point, not extended out front.

[2treks]

Tim I will be getting ahold of you Monday. how deep of hole can you drill?

[SlowBowinMO]

Chuck, you can get 1 3/4" to 2 inches with the standard bit.  With the longer bit you can go a lot deeper BUT of course the deeper you go any imperfection in alignment shows up in a negative way.

I find 3 plus inches very reasonable to achieve with the longer bit, which allows quite a bit of weight.  We've had guys go as deep as 5" but that gets pretty dicey, up to 4" with care is doable but I believe 4" is the absolute upper limit range.

Most of my personal arrows are in the 2 to 3 inch range for depth.

[martin guy]

If you don't mind spending a little more money tungsten is the heaviest and strongest option. I forget what it weighs if Tim has any left maybe he will weigh it for us  
The internal footing jig is also made in Michigan!

Andy

[martin guy]

Chuck,
I believe Tim is looking for dealers as well  

[2treks]

Thanks Tim and Andy.

[dick sable]

Thanks alot for the info fellas. Looks like there are a couple of options for salvaging the collection of older over spined woodies - - I'd probably use them for stumpin'. Best regards and good new year to all.
Dick

[Fletcher]

I've done this myself using my own drilling system and 1/8 inch lead wire.  Like Tim, I find 2" to be very practical and 3" about the reasonable limit.  My lead wire is 35 gr/in.  Adding 70 gr up front adds about 5-7 lb to your spine needs and with a 160 gr point really moves the FOC out there.

The thing with drilling is that it is permanent and not adjustable.  The Woody Weights can be changed around easily.  They both have their place.