glue for field tips?

[NightHawk]

another option is they make field points that are threaded inside of the point. You screw them onto your shaft. The threads cut into the wood,thereby holding them on.

[tradlongbow]

fer-l-tite for points, duco for nocks.

Darren

[Grey Taylor]

George, I have to respectfully disagree with you.
I know how to use hot melt for points. When I first started making arrows that's what I used because that's what everyone used. After awhile I got tired of juggling the arrow, the glue stick, the hot tip, the molten glue, the pliers to hold the tip... etc.
I remembered using epoxy on salt water fishing rod tips and thought I'd give it a try. On big fish rods it's disasterous for the tip guide to come off while a fish is on. A few west coast rod builders tried epoxy, made sure you could still remove a tip for replacement, and never looked back.
After using epoxy on arrow tips I haven't looked back either. No flame, no hot tip, no pliers, no can of water to cool the hot tip, no ring of hard glue to try to pry off the tip, easy to adjust the point before the glue is set, it was a no brainer for me.
The sole drawback is having to wait for the glue to cure before shooting the arrows. Since I generally make arrows to order and ship them to the archer, cure time isn't usually an issue. When it is I use hot melt.
A lot of people have stated that you can't remove tips that have been epoxied on. I have to say they don't seem to know what they're talking about. Either that or they have access to some type of miracle epoxy. I've removed lots of epoxied tips, both to change points and to take out the broken stub to re-use a tip that's broken off. A small amount more heat is needed than is used with hot melt. But it's not much and it's certainly not enough to change the temper of a tip, as I occasionally see stated.

George, if you wish, pm me your address and I'll send you an arrow with an epoxied tip so you can see what it's like to remove it. I'll even make a special arrow for you!

Regards,  Guy

[George D. Stout]

Have no reason to doubt your word Guy.  I can only go by what I've seen over the years; Devcon Epoxy on field points on wood arrows, and you need a hatchet to get them off. That was over twenty years ago and I haven't tried it anymore so perhaps the formulas have changed with some of the glues.  What I do know is I don't lose points with hot melt and I'm pretty sure many of those who do are not seating them properly.

Shoot well partner.

[Grey Taylor]

The glue itself may be the difference right there.
I use 12 minute epoxy made by NHP Co., Inc. I get it at my local hobby store in nice big 8oz kits (4oz per bottle).

Thanks for your gentlemanly reply.

Guy

[Hackbow]

When I shot aluminums and a wheelie bow I have no idea what glue was used because I bought all my arrows made-up. When I made the switch to trad and wood arrows, I made nearly all my arrows (100's) and only had one failure with 2 ton epoxy. That failure was due, I'm sure, to the fact I didn't prep the inside of the field point and I'm guessing there was oil residue. Also, epoxy seemed extremely easy to me to heat and remove fp's or bh's.

I have now switched to carbons and find I like hot melt better with the components (carbon, steel, brass & aluminum). I like the ease of switching front-end weights and the hot melt is the best I've found so far for quickly making changes and not damaging the inside of the carbon.