Bow bolt T/D system

[fixer]

I have seen and used several take down systems. However I have never handled or seen the Bow Bolt system, and haven't been able to find any info so far. Is it a land type system simular to the rifle bolt where it is inserted then engaged with a quarter or half turn and does it (I assume) have a positive stop for alignment?  :confused:

[Java Man]

Yes, its a very good takedown system.  Slightly more than a 1/4 turn and pull apart.  It does have an internal stop for alignment.

Craig Warren supplies them:   www.warrenarchery.com

[fixer]

Hay Java man, thanks for the link helps a lot with pictures. One day I will see one in person and have a chance to try it and then all my questions will be answered. Thanks for your input.

[woodbender]

ive talked to some different bowyers and they told me you have to be careful what woods to use around it one told me he sets his only in micarta ive seen a few crack around it

[tradtusker]

great system

[Dick in Seattle]

Does anyone have an "install-along" or installation instructions they could share?

[FerretWYO]

Dick warren archery has retrofit instructions as well new instalation instructions.

[myshootinstinks]

"ive talked to some different bowyers and they told me you have to be careful what woods to use around it one told me he sets his only in micarta ive seen a few crack around it"

    I owned a bow-bolt TD that held up fine for me at my 28" draw.  Sold it to a friend with a 30" draw and the riser hatched on him. The riser was Hawaiian Koa, as I recall.  
     It's a really slick little system that works great but I think I'd be real particular as to the riser material.

[Dick in Seattle]

Thanks... found the info on his site.   While the end result looks like a beautiful system, the installation looks very, very complicated compared to the hinge system I just put on two bows, much more subject to the kind of screwups I seem to be subject to.   I can see myself easily ending up with a mis-aligned bow.

My bows are real longbows (i.e. straight), so the hinge is easy.  However, the hinge won't work as readily on a bow with a curved riser (why would a bow have a curved riser, anyway?  8^)
Seriously, I can see where this system is more adaptable to the recurve and RD bows most folks shoot. Seeing it installed in sections of the riser that are actually angled to the axis of the bow was an eye opener!  My biggest worry is that I build a very slim riser... not a lot of wood laterally.

All that aside, it looks interesting and I imagine curiosity will lead to me trying it sooner or later.

[coaster500]

Isn't it what Shrew bows use? Has anyone had a shrew blow up with a bow bolt? I have never heard anyone say so? The shrew grips are fairly trim.

I have talked with Craig Warren and he does want to know the grip dimensions if you’re thinking of converting an existing bow and has specific recommendations about glues. He is a really nice guy and answered all my questions about installing a bolt in an existing bow. I did not do it because the bow and I were not a match not because of the Bow/Bolt.

[Bill Carlsen]

It's the best take down system I have seen but you need to have the right riser and do it from scratch. Retrofitting one into an existing bow is not worth the risk.

[Yellow Dog]

I have a Griffin with a bow bolt and it's mounted in a phenolic "I" beam. Never had a problem with it but I don't take it apart very much. Same size grip as my other Griffins.

[Java Man]

coaster 500,

Yes, the BowBolt is what I use on the Shrews.  I have made quite a few only in hardwood, and had one go on me.  It was in solid ebony, too brittle.

Now, They get at least some phenolic with sturdy accents like glass, etc.  Or solid phenolic, or solid Dymondwood.  

Happy New Year,

Gregg

[Craig Warren]

Dick,
Two methods of installation for new construction are detailed on the website.  If you use the method in which you put the bow bolt in the riser first, it is nearly impossible to have a miss allignmnet because you are building the bow using the riser as if it were a one piece and then cut it after.  I only recommend the second method after you've built one or two the first way because a "screw-up" in the second method is unforgiving.  The nice thing about the second method is that the job can be done much faster than in the first method.  Call me if you want more information.

[amar911]

Great system. I have five Shrews and one Holm-Made with Bow Bolts.

I just got back from the Solana Ranch Hunt where I used my latest Shrew Classic Hunter with a Bow Bolt. The Bow Bolt is ideal for the Shrew, and this latest creation by Gregg Coffey is the best Shrew ever. The Classic Hunter is 56" 53#@29" with foam/carbon/uni-weft/veneered limbs and Macasser ebony and phenolic riser. It is the second best looking bow I own (after my Blacktail Snakebit) and shoots at least as well as any bow I have ever shot.

I didn't even get a chance to put the bow together until I arrived at the Solana Ranch and only got to shoot a couple of dozen arrows from it before hunting. My first shot at game was a 20+ yard shot at a doe that died before she went out of sight from my tree stand. The second shot at game was a 26 yard shot at a buck who pivoted so that the arrow ended up hitting him in the rear leg. We never found him, even with dogs. At 26 yards the buck had some time to jump the string.

On both of the shots I took at the deer the arrow went where I was aiming. I also used the bow to "win" an informal shooting contest to see who could get the first hit on a half a Mountain Dew 20 ounce plastic bottle at 46 yards. So the bow can shoot.

With the Bow Bolt installed, a bow feels just like a one piece. I love the interrupted thread design. It reminds me of the little Browning .22 takedown rifle I got as a young fellow. My Holm-Made with the Bow Bolt shoots great too.

Allan