Flemish string success....kinda I guess.

[DngrsDan]

Finally got everything together and sat down this weekend to try my hand at making a flemish string.
We won't talk about my first ~shudder!~ attempt at it.       But by my 5th attempt I think I have it figured out how to twist it up all right. The only thing I seem to have trouble with now is figuring out how to get it the right length when it's done. I need a 63 inch string and I always seem to end up with it as 62". I guess it's just gonna take some time to get the hang of exactly where to start twisting things up.

And, to answer the question, yes, I did try starting with a longer bundle.

[lpcjon2]

try moving you center pin on the jig back 1 or 2 holes ( toward the multiple pins not the to front pins) and that should make a longer sting I start my loops 7" from the end and wrap about 2-2 1/2 inches before I make the loop.

[rickshot]

I made my own string board and ended up putting tape over how I initially marked the jig and remarked it for the length I actually got…now they all come out the length I’d intended.  If you’re consistent with producing the same length string I’d have to suggest the same. Rick.

[ishiwannabe]

I made my own board too, and let me tell ya, Im always WAY off. I think I need to make another, or buy one. The twisting and loops seem like the easy part to me. I have made three pretty decent strings, they are all just way too short...lol.

Do you measure out your loops or just twist em until they look good? I have to measure them to be consistent.

[Dick in Seattle]

My "secret" is a box of business size envelopes.  Every string I make that's short or long goes, unserved, into an envelope with the length marked on it.  It's quite surprising to me now how often instead of making a new one, I can just go to my envelope file!  8^)    

Seriously, as mentioned, the length reference is strictly a beginning point.  Everyone develops their own twist, based on hand size and strength, etc.  Once you get a firm reference for yourself, and mark it, you'll be fine.

[DngrsDan]

ishi,
I've just been eyeballing the length, guess I better start measuring.        
My last string came out to 62 1/2" which is OK as it falls into the right brace height, just don't have any room for adjusting it.

rickshot, Dick, & lpcjon2 - Yeah, I figured that and moved it back another inch, which is how I got it to 62 1/2. Like everyone seems to be telling me, just gotta get the "feel" for it and it should work out OK.

[Al Dean]

I made my own jig and it works great but it is marked for me to have an 8 inch start ect.  I agree with make a string, see length and mark your jig accordingly.  Here is the rub.  Different string materials will stretch more or less.  Different bundle count will stretch more or less.  So markings will only be perfect for one consistant string type.  From there you need to learn to adjust accordingly.

[Orion]

I had to remark my string board as well.   Took the plans for it out of a book.  I think the book measurements are wrong, but it's an easy fix to just remark the length pegs for my way of tying.  

If you already have a string you want to match, can use it to get the proper length on your new string.  I measure its length stretched between two nails.  Then, when I tie my new string, I finish one loop and put it over one of the nails and stretch it taught, but not tight, and I start braiding for my second loop at the full string length of the original, i.e., at the second nail. Initially, you're braiding away from the start point toward the end of the string, of course, to make the loop braid.  Then you bring that back and close the loop at the point at which you started the braid. By the time the second loop is completely braided into the main string, the unstretched string ends up about the same length as the stretched original.  I then put it on the bow and twist it about 20-25 turns and string the bow, which brings it to just about perfect length.  I then adjust the string up or down from there depending on the brace height needed.  

Principle is the same if you use the AMO string length as a guide.  Just start the braiding for the second loop at the AMO string length desired.

I also have an envelope for strings that don't come out the correct length, like Dick in Seattle.  However, I'll often just take one of the loops apart and rebraid to lengthen or shorten the string as needed.  Good luck

[Big Bird]

I had trouble starting out.bought jig and dvd.every thing went wrong.then figured out the guy on dvd was right handed and I am left handed.so I reversed everything then I got it.

[Gapmaster]

I finally stopped using a jig just because the measurements were always off. What I started doing is deciding on the length of string that I wanted (say 63 inches), then adding 18 inches to it (81 inches). That equals 9 inches added for the bundles at each end. I space 2 nails 81 inches apart from each other and wrap my string around the nails using the amount of strands I want, then make the cuts right at the nails. For me, when I twist up the string it comes out almost perfect length every time. It usually comes out so good that it looks like it was cut off a board for a tapered string. This works well for 2 bundle strings. Three bundles might need to be trimmed a bit for a taper.  

[wisconsin wood butcher]

thats cool gapmaster im going to give that a go.Dan i use the jig and threw a lot away and save some no the right lenght ones too somebody always needs a string . the biggest improvment in string quality was twisting the loop bundles consistent so the lenght will come out.

[DngrsDan]

Gapmaster,
with the jig I'm using (from the "Doin' the twist" video) with the pin set for 63" the longest string comes out to 82". I've finally gotten the hang of it and have gotten the string to end up the 63" I need. I'm starting the twist @ 9" from the ends and that seems to work out now. :D  
I can see that your method would work too. In the video Joe wrapped the strands around two points, like you are talking about, then showed how he dropped out strands to taper the braids.
That's the way I drop out the added strands I put in for padding the loops. I'm making the strings as 10 strands and padding the loops with 6 additional strands-3 on each bundle-and dropping the strands out as I twist the loop closed.

wisconsin,
yeah, I think I've finally gotten somewhat consistent now. I've twisted up ten strings so far-counting the bad ones-and four of them (the last four) are all within the range I need.  

[vtmtnman]

Originally posted by Gapmaster:
I finally stopped using a jig just because the measurements were always off. What I started doing is deciding on the length of string that I wanted (say 63 inches), then adding 18 inches to it (81 inches). That equals 9 inches added for the bundles at each end. I space 2 nails 81 inches apart from each other and wrap my string around the nails using the amount of strands I want, then make the cuts right at the nails. For me, when I twist up the string it comes out almost perfect length every time. It usually comes out so good that it looks like it was cut off a board for a tapered string. This works well for 2 bundle strings. Three bundles might need to be trimmed a bit for a taper.    

Next string I make I'm going to try this.I think I'm done with that stupid jig.Never liked using it.

[AkDan]

so if you're leaving 9"es per loop are you measuring back 9"es to build your loops?  To stagger the ends you could always take a scissors before you wax the ends good and every 3/8 to 1/2" cut the next one shorter.  It's a helluva lot easier then dropping strand and having them flopping everywhere....

My board works fine...I did notice when I switch to d97 at times my strings come out a skosh short for some reason, not sure if it's me or the measurements..either way I know to adjust my loop measurements slightly.   IF it's off it's to easy to rip the string apart and make the needed adjustments....write it down on your board for the next time.

[DngrsDan]

AkDan,
you got it. I had originally started twisting it up at the 9.5" (because there was a 19" excess) point-that was giving me a 62" finished string. Once I started @ 9" things fell into place.

*Late edit to the above*
Didn't think to mention Ak, when I drop a string out I cut it when I do, but I leave about an inch attached. Then once I've finished the string I can string my bow, grab a hold of that stub with needle nose, and trim it close.

Yeah, the first time I tried it I did it by just dropping the strands out - was like wrestling with an octopus!        

[AkDan]

interesting enough...I've used my board for so long guess I didnt bother trying any other way....good stuff good stuff!

[DngrsDan]

OK...just posting this for anyone else goin' through the growing pains of making their own strings. Or yer thinkin' about jumping on the bandwagon yerself.

I got my string twisted to 63" as measured relaxed. On the bow it put my brace height just about middle of the bowyer's recommendations.

After sitting strung up for several days the brace height has dropped about 3/4".

This is not a problem though because I really didn't have a lot of twist in the string when I strung the bow with it. So I have room to twist it up and raise my brace height as needed.

So anyone who's never made a flemish string and is thinking about trying it but don't think they can do it, it really is easy once you know what you are SUPPOSED to do. Many thank to Chad - LBR here - for his and Joe's great video "Doin' the Twist", and for his personal help when I had questions. Your video really does a great job clearly showing how to do it.***

Really it only took me 5 attempts to achieve a bowstring I was happy with. And, actually, by the third one I was churning out a fairly decent string, the 3rd and the 4th was learning how to judge the right starting point for the loops so the string ended up the length I wanted.

The 3rd & 4th string were 62" & 62 1/2", which will probably STILL be of use if I put them on and let them stretch in some.

The 1st was too loose. Waxed strings are hard to twist, getting the the rhythm of the twist and roll, and keeping things tight take concentration.        

2nd was better. Had tighter twists, more uniform braiding, loop twists are tighter, the fade in braiding is much better. The fade in braiding is improved but I thought it could be tighter on the next one.

So it only took, really, two learning experiences to produce a string I was happy with and proud of.

Give it a twist.

***~The above comment was an unpaid testimonial from an actual customer.~
(Unless ya REALLY wanna slip me a few bucks under the table for the plug.        )