help with staining curly maple

[wyatts daddy]

Can you guys give me some advice on what stain to use on my curly maple vaneers. I'm looking for a wild color and this will be my first time ever staining anything. I will be using the vaneers in a new bow I'm making and will be putting it under glass. So I need the stain to be compatible with smooth on glue. The riser will be made of a red paduck and zebrawood. I would like to see some of your examples if you have any.
Thx Bill

[Slingblade]

I would suggest looking at Fieblings Leather Dye, you can get it in some crazy colors or custom mix your own color.

[mmgrode]

If you want a wild color rit dye mixed with denatured alcohol also works well. I'm not sure if it is compatible with smooth on, but you can get a wide range of custom colors that way. Maybe someone who has done it w/smooth on can chime in. Cheers, Matt

[Crooked Stic]

The denatured alcohol will work with smooth-on. I have used food coloring and Rit with good results. 1 pack of Rit in 10 oz.

[MikeC]

Not sure if it's compatible but for staining just the curly maple and really making the curl stand out nothing is better than AquaFortis stain.  It needs to be gently heated with a blow-dryer to activate it but once the colors start to change.  WOW the curls pops right out.

[overbo]

Bob Thompson (Mr Zipper)told me leather dye and let it sit in full sunlight a few days.

[OconeeDan]

Here is what I used, it is made for what you want.  Guitar re ranch,  http://www.reranch.com/  ,
not only sell the proper dyes, they have a great "how to" section.  Their dyes come in all colors, and are made specifically for guitars, which is often curly maple.  I used a two stage process, red first, then amber on the limbs.  Glued up with smooth on so I know they are compatable.  And I used denatured alcohol for the base.  Results were great.  The dye is very potent, and a little goes a long way.  PM me for more details.
Dan

 

 

 

 

[foxbo]

MikeC is correct. Nothing beats AquaFortis for bringing out the grain in maple. Traditional muzzleloader suppliers should carry it.

[pine nut]

Nice bow Dan, Good Job! Bill

[pine nut]

Wyatts Daddy,  I do not know if compatable  with smooth on , but I have used roofing tar with coleman fuel to apply to a curley maple stock of a muzzleloader.  It is called asphaltum I think. Work it into the grain.  I makes a mess but you clean it off with 4-0 steel wool  and the grain jumps at you.   Then tru oil finish.  Works for knives too.  Hope this helps.  Bill

[Eric Krewson]

Aquafortis is nitric acid(5 or 10%) with iron added until the acid won't dissolve any more. Wiped on the wood and heated with a heat gun or other source to make the wood turn. The stain turns green first then brown. The wood must be neutralized after the desired color is achieved. A test piece of wood should be used first to determine the end color because wood from different trees will stain a differently with aquafortis.

Here is an example of how aquafortis will "pop" the grain in curly maple. This is an exceptional piece of curley maple and the amount of curl in your wood will vary from this piece more than likely.

 

[Dave Worden]

TransTint alcohol-based wood dye will also work well.  What you are really looking for is a dye, not a stain.  In my experience dyes give clearer color/grain pattern than do stains.

[OconeeDan]

Eric, that is a beautiful piece of wood.  What are we looking at?  Love the way the grain is brought out.  
Dan

[Hawken1911]

My father is a professional wood finisher and here is his trick; he uses a powered, black, water-soluble, wood dye (  http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=760  ). He mixes it according to the manufacturer’s instructions, cuts the mix in half again with water, and wipes it on the wood.  He wipes off the excess with a clean cloth.  The black dye highlights the grain by soaking into the porous parts more than the rest of the grain.  The water dye also raises the grain a bit, so he will lightly sand it with 600 grit sandpaper, which increases the contrast even more.  This technique gives you the best contrast, depth and iridescence for curly or quilted wood, even before you apply whatever color stain you want over it.  I have no idea about the compatibility with glues or top coats though.  It is a stunning technique that might be worth experimenting with

[Eric Krewson]

That is just a picture of a gun builders test piece of maple. It has some hand wrought skewers stuck in it. He is stocking a flintlock with the same slab of wood, should be beyond spectacular.

[rainman]

Transtint dye from woodcraft is what to use.  You can get it in just about any color you want.  You can no longer get aquafortis stain from muzzleloader supply places since 9\\11.  If you want to make your own the nitric acid is about a $100 a pint from a pharmicist.  Asphaltum will work to make the grain pop also.  Any stain will be compatable if it is dry before glue up.

[wyatts daddy]

Thanks Eric, I ordered the Aquafortis and it is being sent. Should be here in a few days.
Bill

[MikeC]

Bill,

Follow the directions if it comes with some.  There is nothing like it for curly maple.

I'm currently in the process of selecting parts for a flintlock fowler and will be using aquafortis for the stock.

Use a heat gun if you have one for your heat source and like Eric said it will first turn green then the true color comes out and so will the smile on your face.  You can neutralize with baking soda.  If your looking for a nice in the wood satin finish I would recommand a hand rubbed finish using pure tung oil.  You will need to cut that back at least 50% for the first couple of coats, eight coats applied once a week will give you a finish that will make you cry with joy.  For protection use a satin finish amber or brown old fashioned wax.

Sorry I have gunstock on the brain       .  Disregard what I said about the tung oil and wax, forgot it's a glass backed bow.

[wyatts daddy]

Mikec, what do you mean nuetralize with baking soda?
Bill