Arrow Tuning Epiphany

[mrpenguin]

I'd like to share a revelation I had... forgive me if this is a 'duh' to those more experienced...

Recently I traded with a gentleman for a Cascade Golden Hawk Magnum TD recurve.  The bow is 60#.  Excitedly, I purchased a dozen of the Easton Full Metal Jacket Dangerous Game arrows from my buddy at the archery shop, 300 spine.  We figured they should fly beautifully at close to full length pulling 60#.  Not quite.  So we began playing with brass inserts and varied weight broadheads.  In conjunction, we cut the shaft down... so, drum roll, here is what we discovered...

Finding a good tune is not just about spine, DL, length, and EFOC, it is playing with the various combinations of length and EFOC weight.  For instance, the arrow will not tune longer with less weight up front for me, it needs to be a bit shorter with a LOT of front weight... the more weight up front, the more stable.  The arrows  came into tune cut to 31", 100 gr brass inserts, and 200 gr broadhead.  I am willing to bet a heavier bh will tune as well... but I am not sure...

All this is consistent with Ashbey's findings... shulda listened to the doctor to start and saved some headaches...

So, in the end, when tuning we cut he arrow length 1/2" at a time and worked systematically with tip weight keeping the insert consistent.  This is how we found the tune.

I tested it on my 3D target today and would have had backstrap for dinner if it was hunting season!!

Hope this helps someone out : )

[Mike Bolin]

[JRY309]

That may work fine for a recurve cut past center but doesn't work out them same for longbows that are cut off center.A while back I had bought some used carbons that were cut 1" past my draw length and they were showing stiff.So I wanted to weaken the spine by increasing front end weight.They got worse the more weight I added,they were in effect bouncing off the riser instead of flexing around it.For me I find a carbon will tune better if left longer on a longbow that are not cut to center.JMO

[pdk25]

Nearly the same setup as I have.  I shoot 300 fmj (not dangerous game) that are 30 3/4" long with 100 grain brass inserts and 200 grain tips out of my RER recurve that is 60# @ 28" and drawn to a little over 29" and using a skinny string.

[LKH]

My experience has shown me that for my longbows, cutting 1/2" is too aggressive.  When I start getting close I go down a quarter or less per try.  Last ones ended up at 28.2" for my 26" draw.

[vtmtnman]

I've found it's much easier to cut all my arrows to one length(That being 30") and play with point weights rather than cutting 1/4 inch at a time.

[b.glass]

I've been playing with poplar dowels from the hardware store for rabbit arrows. 3/8" were way to stiff and most 5/16" way to weak.

I got the 5/16" dowels to work with my long bow by adding a 1/16" thick piece of leather to my strike plate. If they are close to spining right in the first place.

I will have a lot of low spine arrows (35#-40#) if anybody needs some!