Optimum angle of single bevel?

[StanM]

I'm sure the answer to this is in one of Dr. Ashby's reports, but I can't seem to find it.  What is the optimum angle for a single bevel (or even double bevel) broadhead?  Thanks,

Stan

[Orion]

Single and double bevels are a lot different.  25 degrees is the most common single bevel angle.  22 1/2 degrees per side, which yields a 45 degree cutting edge, is fairly common on two-blade double bevel broadheads.

[Dr. Ed Ashby]

What Jerry said. 25 degrees for a single-bevel. You need good steel for that to hold it's edge during penetration.

Ed

[razorback]

Don't want to hijack this thread, but i have a question related to this. I saw on another thread how someone had a jig for sharpening single blades. It was real simple with a 4*2 cut to 25 degree angle and a hinge used to clamp the head. Then put on a sander. Anyone remember this or have a photo.

[razorback]

Found it. the search engine is a wonderful thing, LOL.
Dr. Ashby, how fine a grit do you use on the sanding disk to get acceptable sharp.

[StanM]

Thanks Jerry and Dr. Ashby!  Razorback, I got what I need hijack away  

[Dr. Ed Ashby]

Tony, I don't use a sanding disk. I do use a belt sander of the type used by knife makers. On it I start with a course grit and end with a 400 grit ... but then I move to the fine stones and on to a true razor strop. I've also used the paper polishing wheels with fine adrasive with good results.

In the bush I now do all the finishing with the KME knife sharpener (you want the knife model for single bevel broadheads, and I use the KME broadhead sharpener when doing double-bevel broadheads and, especially, for the replacable blades - few of which are anywhere near being 'truly sharp' right from the package).

Ed

[Dr. Ed Ashby]

Tony, I don't use a sanding disk. I do use a belt sander of the type used by knife makers. On it I start with a course grit and end with a 400 grit ... but then I move to the fine stones and on to a true razor strop. I've also used the paper polishing wheels with fine adrasive with good results.

In the bush I now do all the finishing with the KME knife sharpener (you want the knife model for single bevel broadheads, and I use the KME broadhead sharpener when doing double-bevel broadheads and, especially, for the replacable blades - few of which are anywhere near being 'truly sharp' right from the package).

Ed

[Dr. Ed Ashby]

Tony, I don't use a sanding disk. I do use a belt sander of the type used by knife makers. On it I start with a course grit and end with a 400 grit ... but then I move to the fine stones and on to a true razor strop. I've also used the paper polishing wheels with fine adrasive with good results.

In the bush I now do all the finishing with the KME knife sharpener (you want the knife model for single bevel broadheads, and I use the KME broadhead sharpener when doing double-bevel broadheads and, especially, for the replacable blades - few of which are anywhere near being 'truly sharp' right from the package).

Ed

[Dr. Ed Ashby]

Sorry for the multiple postings. The web must be wobbling!

Ed

[varmint101]

Maybe this should be a different post, but does a single bevel hold it's edge longer?  

I've got some Steel Force 200gr LW single bevel heads and I've shot one thru cans, in the ground, and into a target butt many many many times and the dang thing is still pretty sharp.  My other heads would have been dull a long time ago.

[Dr. Ed Ashby]

Lower sharpening angle = thinner edge = higher mechancial advantage to the edge = "feels sharper" ... and it would, indeed, cut more efficiently than an 'equally dulled' double bevel (simply because of the edge's higher MA) ... but it should be 'truly sharp' before you use it on game.

MOST (not all) of the single-bevel BH's on the market have much harder steel in them than MOST of the double-bevel BH's, because it takes a harder steel to hold the thinner single-bevel edge during penetration. That higher quality, harder steel also means they will retain their sharpness far better than most double bevel BH's (though there is at least one double bevel with excellent, high quality steel; the Silver Flame).

Ed

[varmint101]

Okay, thanks, that makes sense.  I was just really surprised at how sharp it still is to the touch.  Don't worry, it will be truly sharp before it goes into real duty.

[Bill Carlsen]

Here's the link to the "hinge jig".

 http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=060487

[outbackbowhunter]

Personally I like a 30 degree single bevel, a good compromise for a strong edge thats still very sharp.