Making armgaurds and gloves/tabs?

[Chris Shelton]

Okay, so I know how to tan my own hides and pelts.  And for the record am getting pretty decent at it finally.  And can get a nice soft pelt.  

So my first question is this . . . even thought I can get some really, really soft hides, they are still really hard to sew!  Any tips?

And does anyone know any good instructions/blueprints for making these items?

[maineac]

I took a tab that I had purchased, but found to thick for my liking, and traced it onto some leather I had. I then used a retractable knife to cut it our.  I punched a finger hole with some wood gouges I rave.  Crude, But I like them and i can turn out half a dozen in 15 minutes and pile them around and in my pack so I have one in almost any pocket I can reach into.  I won't reccomend any stiching techniques because i am still not happy with mine, but will watch this for some help.

[poison arrow]

"Lexol" helps to further soften, condition and protect leathers after they have been tanned. If your sewing the leather without punching holes first you need those leather needles that do not have a real narrow sharp point like most needles. They have an arrowhead like point for strength and that makes it hard to punch through the leather. Beware of needles from China. I had one break on me two day ago. Not bend like normal needles do and you can straighten them back out but, snapped in half. The patterns you are talking about are pretty simple. You could just trace an old arm guard and pull the stitches out of an old glove and trace the pieces. If you buy some good leather needles for a sewing machine and have a sewing machine with the hand crank on the side, that is the way to go. It works fine for me and is a lot easier on my fingers and more exact letting the machine pierce the leather. Remember use the hand crank there is no need for turnning the machine on and running it fast. I use SCHMETS leather needles size 90/14 designed for leather and made in India. They beat Chineese any day.
Ed
Ed

[Mike Most]

Tandy leather, makes a hole puncher or an awl which will do what you need. They also have instructions on different stitching techniques. Whether you want to sew it with a saddle stitch for instance or whether you want to lace it up.

They also have an archery pattern pack that could be adjusted to your needs. Even with the holes punched I still use needle nose pliers to pull the needles thru the leather, saves my fingers.

Good Luck

Mike  

[Maxximusgrind]

I have a couple different sewing awls that I use,But know someone who made a complete pair of mocassins without one by punching holes with a finishing nail and tack hammer over a scrap piece of plywood.If you want to buy tools,Tandy has everything you would need.

[MercilessMing]

Have you tried using Dremel to drill a before sewing?

[portugeejn]

Until I got something better, I used an old ice pick for  years to punch holes in the leather before sewing.  I still use the ice pick for any number of leather projects.  I also used a very small drill bit and drilled holes.

Also I found using waxed thread helped with the sewing.

RonP

[boznarras]

Similar to the icepick, I have a woodworking scratch awl that is very keenly pointed and punches through leather well. Modifing a more blunt profile with a file and some stones would work too. I just lay the leather flat on a board and push the awl through into the board.
For sewing, if you don't know what one is, look into a sewing palm. It is like a fingerless glove with an armored palm that has a lead disk with dimples in it that you can use to push on the butt of heavy needles. They are found in marine stores, used to sew heavy canvas, etc. They come in right or left hand.
A cake of beeswax to pull the thread across helps sometimes. For thread, I like recycling 90lb test, braided dacron fishing line, that I take off my halibut saltwater reel at the end of the season; you can buy new in many colors at a sportfishing store. It is very thin for its strength, pulls easily through the leather, resists abrasion, does not rot, and holds knots well.

[Chris Shelton]

wow some great advice, I havent tried to sew anything really thick yet so I didnt think I would need to punch, but I have some ideas of what to use now, thanks guys!

[Jeremy]

If your hides are soft you can just use a glover's needle.  These have a sharp point that's triangular in cross section - it cuts the leather as you sew.  I use them on everything from 6-8oz moose hide to 5-6oz firm cow chap leather w/o punching holes.

[Maxximusgrind]

If the leather is too thick to push a needle through,there is one type of awl thats got a spool on it that works like a big needle in a handle.the handle really helps you push the needle.Then,once the needle is through the leather you spool off some of the thread on the back side.everytime you push the needle through,it makes a loop on the back.put the thread you spooled out through the loop and pull the needle out.I loaded mine with artificial sinew for some projects.
 I dont think they cost alot and you should be able to find one at a hardware store.
 But its just one option.you may want to try several of the options on this thread  over time and see for yourself wich way you prefer for different projects.
 I should also mention that Tandy's website has instructional video clips now.there are several on lacing,If you want to give that a try.