Mfx Arrow tuning ?s

[SkottyBoy]

Never have tuned but read all I can find here are my current ?s
1. What spine, 500 with less weight up front? Or 400 with more up front. 51 @ 28 in.
2. Most say shoot a  3 arrow group fletched then a group unfletched. If this is done arrows will have to be cut from tip end. How do I make a HIT insert temporary.
3. How much do I cut off if spine is weak? Or do I just lower weight.
4. Will adding tube weights effect spine?
That's it for now. Thanks for your 2 "sense".

you can cut off of nock end of arrow,so go ahead and glue your inserts in or youl have your target full of them like mine....

[JRY309]

For my tuning with carbons without glueing the inserts in,I use the saran wrap method.I use saran wrap and squeeze in the insert with alittle saran wrap to hold the insert in snug.You need a softer target like a bag target that doesn't grab the arrow too tight to pull out the insert.The saran wrap hold the insert in pretty tight but a foam target will pull the insert back out on arrow removal.I use wraps on all my carbons and tune with the wraps on,so cutting from the nock end doesn't work for me.With using saran wrap I get my carbons tuned without glueing them in or using any heat on them.I tune all my carbons this way,works great for me.

[jbuck9]

Scottyboy,
If you are shooting a cut too center bow, with FF
I'd go with 400 and more weight up front, if you have a good release, and form start out with just a bare shaft. and let it long start shooting that shaft several times, if you get the same results each time say weak, cut her down till she comes in, you can start with the weight tip you think you would like too shoot, if you are going too use wraps go ahead and put them on prior too shooting, when you think you have it fletch a couple up and shoot with bare shafts and see how you do, then fine tune from there, adjusting brace , or knock point, or even shelf material thickness.I would go too a little on the heavy side up front.

[mrpenguin]

I have played with these arrows for a couple of years so here are my observations with a very similar set-up...

1. 400 with more weight will be more stable in flight, and I recommend 100 gr brass inserts with 150 to 200 up front.  Start with you bare shaft at 30" and go down until they group at 2o yds about where you look... feathers will straighten out the rest

2.  Gluing inserts and cutting from the back is the best way not to lose tips and inserts... I've lost many using other methods

3.  Weight tubes stiffen the spine of mfx and axis arrows... its the thick wall that does it.

4.  If your recurve is cut past center, tuning gets dicey... use a wooden match stick vertically in the sight window behind the strike plate to bring the arrow on center.

5. Get your bare shafts to fly pretty straight, but pay special attention to nocking ring height... get that as perfect as possible.

These are just suggestions from someone who has spent a lot of time with these arrows... but every archer and bow is different.

Good Luck!

[Jim Wright]

For info's sake, I am shooting a 62" Toelke Whip,(center cut) 55# at 29". I've bare-shafted & paper-tuned MFX 500's 30 1/2" throat of nock to b.o.p. with two 100 grain brass inserts, a 145 grain field pt. and three 5" parabolics-total weight at 655/660 grains, they fly beautifully! In MY experience, carbons in general and MFX's in particular are MUCH stiffer-spined than any chart indicates.

[Tomas]

I shoot a RER TD 51@28 but my draw is just short of 28in. The 500s fly good for me, the 400s were too stiff even with 200 grains up front. Forget about the weight tubes these arrows with a 145 gr. or heavier head are heavy enough.

[ishoot4thrills]

I would recommend the 500 spine and if they're too weak, which I doubt they are, you can always add material to the side plate above the shelf. Harder to fix an arrow that is too stiff than one that is too weak.

[BighornTn]

Guys one thing I have done to keep from losing inserts is used low temp hot melt. Just put a litte on the insert with the pratice point you are using and push it in.  after you seat the insert give it a few seconds and unscrew the point to remove any excess.  I have not lost any points using this method. When removing the insert put on a 200 or 250 grain point and heat the tip and the insert will come out.  Rick J