Tapering cane

[jonathan creason]

I'm going to try my hand at making some cane arrows.  NC is covered up in the stuff, and free fits the budget just right.  Anyway the plan right now is to self nock, and taper the point end for a glue-on.  I've read that cane is tough to taper with one of the pencil sharpener type tools.  I don't have a belt sander, though, and by the time I bought one I could just buy myself some new arrows.  So how would you go about tapering the cane in that instance?

[Rob DiStefano]

there are some really good you tube vids on making cane arrows.  here's one ...

 

tapering for a point is critical for any arrow as crooked points and nocks are not good.  since most cane is tapered, it probably wouldn't work well to taper with a pencil type tapering tool.  

i see where lotsa folks use a separate shaft point fore end, of wood, that fits into the shaft's front end.  lotsa good benefits by doing this.

i'm sure some cane arrow savvy folks will chime in with good scoop for ya.

[razorback]

I believe most cane arrow makers put a hardwood insert in both ends to accomodate the taper, You could pre-taper the dowel before inserting it. I believe there is a buil-along in one of the archived forums on here. Plenty of others at other sites as well.

[Aeronut]

I just plug the end with a dowel about 2" long and then taper with a sander.  Never tried a pencil type on them but I think it would be tough.

Dennis

[varmint]

Originally posted by Aeronut:
I just plug the end with a dowel about 2" long and then taper with a sander.  Never tried a pencil type on them but I think it would be tough.

Dennis

Same here.Ace Hardware carries a good supply of very small diameter dowels that fit nicely in the cane shafts.

[Pat B]

I use a belt sander to taper cane(and hardwood shoot) shafts for field points and glue-ons. Never had good luck with a pencil sharpener type. These have a tendency to grab and even split the cane. Generally I use trade points or stone and I haft them directly into the cane so the taper isn't as critical for hafted points. Same with self nocks.
   I don't use a fore shaft either because of the work involved in lining it up and making a good, straight joint them setting the point on to the foreshaft. I have added a "filler" dowel or bamboo skewer glued in the center hole  for both points and self nocks but don't do that much any more because I found it unnecessary.
  With cane shafts you have to be very careful tapering either end. The culm(cane shoot) is naturally tapered full length and very irregular so trying to get a taper that lines up through the plane of the shaft take some delicate handling.
  Cane and hardwood arrows don't have to be laser straight like most folks want in an arrow. As long as the point and nock line up and the arrow spins true on it's point the arrow will fly well. Obviously you want an arrow as straight as possible and with work, cane arrows can be made as straight as any other shafting. Art Butner's cane arrows are an example as to how straight and consistent a cane arrow can be. There are a few other guys I know that insist on a very straight cane arrow but as many or more that make their cane arrows with some character and still get good arrow flight.

[frank bullitt]

The cane arrows I have done up this past year, the nocks were done like wood self nocks and wrapped for strength.

Now for the point end, I took the cane that I cut to reach the desired length, and split into about 4 pieces with a knife. Then I dripped some superglue in the hollow point end, and shoved the split pieces in the hollow, to fill. Then took more superglue and drench down about the last inch, where the point taper would be. Let this dry awhile, then I tapered with my tru- taper tool.

I was concerned also, that I might have tear outs or splits, when using the hand taper tool, but the superglue kind of holds the fibers together. It worked!

Heck, you could shave down some broken poc, or fir or any other broken shaft pieces! Save your money on the hardware dowels. Even small diameter limbs from the yard, just look around!

Love them cane arrows!  

[AkDan]

make a plug, taper it, glue it in place as a "insert", kind like the ones inside a magnus or zwickey screw on.   YOu can easily make them out of a hardwood dowel, cut to length, and file the shaft to the inner diameter (or you could chuck it up in a drill on the taper end first, and basically use at as a hand lathe.   cut the plug end first, then finish the taper end.  You'll never see the marks as you'll finish filing the tapered end last.  The marks will be on the plug end inside the cane.  simple and easy.

[jonathan creason]

Thanks for the info everybody.  AkDan, your method sounds simple enough, I might have to give that a try.

One if these days I'll get a belt sander.

[AkDan]

Jonathan,

The koreans do this on the nock end, I cant remember without watching Tom's video if they do it on the point end...they do use a grinding wheel and not a drill though.  There is no reason a drill wouldnt work.   You'll obviously need some way to hold the drill (bench vise).   You could nock the shaft end down to diameter with a file I reckon....or even a hacksaw to help remove some bulk, not knowing what you have for tools, then finish rounding with a file and sandpaper till you get the right diameter of the drilled hole in the cane.  Then chuck the shaft end of the plug up and start nocking your point taper down.  

You'll have some issues if you use to hard of a hardwood (say oak) in the hand tapering jigs unfortunatly, there's no reason birch wouldnt work, which is the softest of the hardwoods or hardest of the softwoods.   I know a fella who does quite well using a drill in hardwood shafts to turn the nock and point tapers...it truely stinks doing them by hand.

Somewhere down the road, I'd spend the hundred bucks run to sears and pick up a belt sander with a disc attachment and fab. yourself a nock and point grinder.     You could easily make a simple jig for making your cane plugs too.   And also use it to build bows, etc etc...lots of good stuff.

[jonathan creason]

Yeah, I could use a good sander for my decoys, too, just a matter of stumbling on a good price.  I'll be keeping an eye on craigslist.  I know one would make the process a lot easier, but I want to be sure I can turn out a servicable arrow before I drop any money on something.

I knew we had a ton of cane in NC, but now that I'm actively looking for it I'm finding it everywhere.  Stopped on the side of the road while out doing a farm visit just a few minutes ago and cut about 10 shoots in just a minute.  Left plenty more behind, too.

[Pat B]

Be sure you harvest only mature cane(culms) for arrows. If it is too young it will be too flimsy  for arrows and will wrinkle lengthwise as it dries.

[jonathan creason]

I probably do need to take my time a little more than I did today when choosing culms.  Besides the 3/8" wrench idea are there any other good pointers to use when picking them out?

Also, does anyone know where I can find a good key to be able to identify the different species?

[Pat B]

If the paper sheath around the nodes is deteriorated or totally gone the culm is at least past it's second year. Also the color can change from a bright green to a more yellow green when the culm is matured. If the culms are tan colored leave them be. They are already dead and have started deteriorating. The native canes have a 3 year life cycle from what I have found. After the 2nd year but before the culm dies after the 3rd season is when you want to cut it.
  Check out NC State, UGA or Clemson University horticulture dept. website and see if they have IDing info for native cane. We only have 3 species of native cane in North America. All are Arundinaria genus and the species are gigantia(river cane), tecta(switch cane) and appalachiana(hill cane).

[jonathan creason]

Thanks, Pat.  Going to bundle and dry what I've got now as long as it fits that description.  Like I said, I saw probably a dozen other possible sources in a 45 minute round trip today, so I'll hopefully be getting more.  I guess I need to build myself a spine tester.

My wife is going to be psyched that I found myself another hobby!

[Pat B]

Google "James Hill Spine Tester".