Two small questions..?

[SveinD]

I'll be short here :

1. Can I use Ferr-l-tite on carbons or will the heating damage them? If not what can I use that will let me get it out again?

2. Gonna do some bowfishing for pike this summer, will a 35# recurve do, or do I need more?

Ty for your opinions  

[Irish Archer]

I melt the glue on the insert and shove it in. Works for me. 35 is plenty for pike IMO.

[Smallwood]

just remember to dunk it in water after you install your insert so it will cool it .

[SveinD]

Ok, thanks  

[bowmaster12]

i would not recomend using the glue in carbon the heat can damage the carbon it also tends not to bond as well see it all the time at work where u can grab a point with plieres adn pull the insert right out

[lpcjon2]

I have done it like Irish Archer does,but I use an alcohol burner rather than the stove it doesn't heat the insert to fast.

[SveinD]

Bowmaster12/lpcjon2, what can I use instead that will let me get out the insert as easily?

[lpcjon2]

If you screw in a field point and add heat to the field point it will soften up the melt and pull out.

[JRY309]

Be careful with heat on carbons,I know a lot have used hot melt and I have myself but there isn't a carbon arrow manufacturer out there that recommends using any heat at all with carbon arrows.Are you trying to tune them? What I do now for tuning carbons is to squeeze in the insert with some saran or plastic food wrap.It will hold the insert in snuggly for tuning.But you need a softer target like a bag target that doesn't grab the arrow too tight to pull the insert back out when removing the arrow.I get my carbon arrow tuning done without glueing or using any heat on my carbons.This is the only way I tune my carbons,it's quicker and safer for carbons in my opinion.

[ishoot4thrills]

Originally posted by lpcjon2:
If you screw in a field point and add heat to the field point it will soften up the melt and pull out.

I did this years ago on some C. Express arrows and it bent the very tip of my shaft on about three of them before I noticed it. You could spin them and see it clearly. So, I had to use those with field points only and couldn't use them with broadheads at all. Oh, and I didn't heat the screw-in point very long at all either. If you use this method, you are taking a BIG chance on ruining your carbon arrows. I never use heat anywhere close to my carbons anymore.

[SveinD]

I'm glad I asked! Thanks for the replies everyone ^^

[Kurt Miller]

On Alaska Bowhunting website, they have a good tutorial video for using a little hot melt when tuning before final gluing in with JB weld.  to remove with hot melt or even JB weld, they show being very careful not to heat actual arrow but like already mention above, heat a field pt in insert to gradually heat just enough to remove without (hopefully) overheating carbon.  For tuning I skip the hot melt and use the saran wrap method already mentioned in a previous response, it worked great for me.  Good luck.

[Bel007]

Thanks... I was wondering the same.  I'm using the saran wrap for tuning... but was not sure what I would use once I got done.  I have always used FLT.

[JRY309]

After I've done my tuning with saran wrap,I'll then prep my shaft for installing inserts.I'll etch or scratch the inside of the shaft with a bore brush and then clean it with alcohol.I then even scratch the inserts with sandpaper whether they are brass or aluminum and clean them with alcohol too.Then I'll mix up a two part 24 hr. epoxy and glue them in and let them set for a day.With the proper prep I haven't lost a single insert.I feel the key to get inserts to hold is in the preperation and a good epoxy.This has been my experience and what I do with my carbons.

[screamin]

saran wrap for tuning and loctite super glue gel when its all said and done.