Newbie ?'s/Ben Pearson Recurves

[Jon S]

I am new here, been reading some and learning more.  Looking to buy my first recurve.  Went to a reputable shop yesterday, learned some technique/form, stepped up in weight to a comfortable area, started shooting bows in that range
I am 6'4" tall, have about a 30.5 inch draw
The only bows the shop had used (I am a teacher and can't afford new and don't want to spend $700+ on the first) were Ben Pearson in weight and appropriate lengths.
I liked the price range: 65-225
-all had one slightly bent limb I was told could be fixed with a crescent wrench and a little weight
-all seemed to shoot well, didn't notice a lot of differences in them
A few questions linger:
-What should I be looking for in a bow for a beginner?  I am proficient with one of those wheelie deals, but have seen the light and want to make the switch.
-Any concerns with a cheap bow if there are no cracks?
-Any concern with Ben Pearson bows? I learned he can shoot a moving target better than most, figure his bows might be o.k.
-Anything else I should know?

Thanks in advance for your education
Jon

[BobCo 1965]

Without actually seeing the bows in person, I can tell you that a Ben Pearson in general would be a fine choice. Personally, I love Ben Pearson bows.

[ksbowman]

Pearson bows are good bows just not as coveted as Bears. I've owned several and liked all of them.I currently have a dozen bows, two are Pearsons and one I am shooting regularly and hunting with.  Ben

[SCATTERSHOT]

Some of the Pearson bows were the finest made at that time, and are still excellent bows. Pick one that appeals to you, and go for it!

welcome from the dark side.

[Don Stokes]

I killed my first archery deer with a Ben Pearson recurve, in the '70's. Good bows. A slight twist in the limb can be fixed by just twisting it in the opposite direction by hand, and leaving it strung. It may take several "adjustments", but it will work.

Always use a stringer, and never use the "step-through" method. That's what causes twist in the first place.

[Hot Hap]

With your draw length, I would look for a 62-64" bow. Hap

[Jon S]

Thanks for the tips so far, have a couple of PM's as well.  You guys are great.  Both the ones I liked today were Cougar Models,
Both 45 @28",

One is a cougar 706 - 64" has a lot of dings on it, needs refinishing, new string and has some vertical cracking that is visible. $65
The other is a cougar 7050 62".  Better looking, has good string. $175.
Serial #'s are different layouts: 706 starts with 06-206--
7050 is BB1AA--
Anyone tell me what those serial #'s signify?
I am also considering buying a new Samick sage takedown that can be had for $120-130 or so.  Some recommend newer stuff, others like the old, does new mean better?
My thoughts are for mass produced bows, newer=better/more reliable, etc., but for custom bows, age may be a boost in value.
Thanks a bunch for the help so far, don't know what I will do yet, but will probably make a decision sooner than later.

[LimbLover]

I love Cougar models too and have owned 3. Their risers feel great.

My only complaint with them is that unlike the Bears they do not have reinforced limb tips. I've seen two split right at the limb and they didn't have anything wrong with them when I bought them.

It was just there time I guess.

[Jon S]

That is sort of my worry, no way to know when they will give out or if it will never happen.  
It may be hard to go wrong with the $65, take it, refinish it, put some polyurethane on the edges, re string it and start flinging arrows.
It also may be hard to argue with a new bow for twice that.  No history, but I am more about function and figure if I can get one that will last for awhile, that might be the best plan.
Still thinking.

[Benny Nganabbarru]

Have you checked-out  www.rmsgear.com  ? They are a sponsor here, and have a broad range of good second-hand bows, and they really know their stuff.