Knock high

[Glaspack]

Ok I am posting this to see if anyone has any suggestions of where to go next.

My father in law is shooting a black widow PSAX, it is 55 pounds at 28 inches, he was using a legacy 2219 cut at 29 and 3/4 with a 250 grain tip.

earlier this year he noticed some white discoloration in the limbs and sent them back to Black Widow, Well here in lies the problem.

Now that he has gotten his limbs back, he can not get an arrow to fly right. we tried adjusting the knock point up and down, but no matter what he still shows knock high.

he even tried a few 5575 carbon arrows that I have, just for comparison, but always knock high.

any help would be apprieciated

[raideranch]

Can’t always get rid of nock high, just have to get it as close as you can.  If that’s not good enough for you try an elevated rest.  You could also try double nock points.

[ranger 3]

Weigh the bow on a scale and see if it is still 55@28

[Bjorn]

Please describe what you are seeing as 'nock high'?

[4 point]

Is there a mark on the edge of the shelf or on the arrow? Sounds like the arrow is bouncing of the shelf.

[684Kevin]

I think "4 point" has a great comment above.  I have two widow recurves. A 60"PGA and a 60"PSR.  Both are tillered the same.  The nock height on the PGA is 1/4" lower than on the PSR and it will punch a single hole when paper tuning.  The PSR bounces arrow off the shelf according to the arrow wraps.  I start with a bare shaft and a fresh wrap.  Starting with 1" high nock point and working down until start to see rubs on the wrap and then go back up ever so slightly with the nock point.  The PSR shoots the bare shaft a little nock high still, but at least its not bouncing off the shelf.  It may be the different style of grips for me or it may be the two bows are just tillered a little different.  I have tried double nock points, thinking my arrow nock was sliding down the string upon release but that did not seem to do a thing in my case.  I would also be curious to see if one of the limbs  (probably the lower one) may be ever so slightly stronger/more efficient than the other limb and driving the rear of the arrow downward somewhat.  Hope you can solve it or figure out whats going on.  If you're fussy on perfect arrow flight it can really be frustrating knowing you can get the shaft to paper tune for arrow spine, but never will tune it exactly perfect with a slightly high nock.  An arrow with feathers will typically fix a slight nock high shaft soon after it leaves the bow without affecting arrow flight downrange.

[lpcjon2]

what distance are you paper tuning at? Did you lower the point weight and try from a center nock point?

[Overspined]

I find paper tuning useless when dealing with broadhead/point weights over about 145gr or so. 225gr point weight bareshaft will always show nock high, and will bounce off the bow even worse if the wrong spine, so tuning with feathers seems to be a better idea in my opinion. I only adjust spine for left/right with bareshafts and heavy points and get close, then fletched shafts to fine tune with broadheads by cutting a little at a time. That is just my experience. Find a shaft that the left right looks good, then step down to a weak shaft, and a step up to find a stiff shaft and pick the one in the middle and work from there with length and a broadhead.

[Overspined]

I shoot 200 to 235 gr heads and feathered arrows that are tuned should look perfect.

[Longbow338]

If you are shooting 3 under try a double nock set if you are not already.