Problems with EFOC.

[Ragnarok Forge]

The real answer lies in what you want.  If it is an arrow the is reliable and will kill.  Then shoot what your used to and be happy with it.  If like me your looking for an optimized arrow then take the time and effort to find EFOC arrows and enjoy the journey.

I am shooting 584 grain arrows at close to 30% FOC.  I also have a 654 grain set up ready for a trip to Africa once I get the money set up that is 24% FOC.  It is a win / win in my book.  But only in my book.  You have to decide what is best for you.

[Ray Hammond]

Jon,

Stiff is good.

That means you can just keep adding weight till it flies correctly.

If its weak, the only thing you can do is back off the weight to get it to stiffen up.

[Ground Hunter]

EFOC! Don't need no stinking EFOC!  Way - way - down the list of what's important.  H

[Ryan Rothhaar]

Jon - quit fiddlin' with your arrows - go find another wiener dog and train him - thats a MUCH better use for the off season!

R

[ranger42]

I have found that carbon arrows can be shot at various F.O.C.'s effectively. Simple, find the most consistent grouping arrows at 15 to 20 yds and your done. Usually, 175 to 225 on the front works for me. The only thing i worry about is consistent arrow flight.

[lt-m-grow]

I am not missing the point.   It is not about what you read.  It is about what you experience. And that is what Jon's question is about.  

Hence the red herring...

[Overspined]

dont bare shaft tune with efoc heads...just doesn't work for most folks. Use feathers and just watch the arrow.

[Don Stokes]

If bare shaft tuning isn't working, I'm not going to stop there 'cause that means things just ain't quite right. Feathers cover up a lot of problems, which is the point of bare-shafting. If the spine is perfect for the setup, bare shafts WILL fly straight. If they don't, there are problems still to be worked out, either in spine or some other aspect of the bow setup, like fistmele, side plate thickness, nocking point location, torquing the string, etc.

[Guss]

Hey Jon, i'm shooting the same specs as you out of a Tall Tines recurve. I have been shooting Beman MFX 500's, they shoot great... but with 250 gr. up front they still bareshaft a little stiff, and that's leaving the shaft long ~29.5", my draw length is 27"...total arrow wt. is ~550 gr..12.2 gr.per #. I would like to have a little flatter trajectory...so I picked up some 600's..looking to have the finished arrow ~10.gr. per #. I believe your findings are right on with what I've experienced. I see nothing wrong with playing around with different shafts to get the absolute best arrow flight possible...but when it's time to go to the woods shoot what you have confidence in!

[ChuckC]

Well. . .  you can spend the summer trying to get perfect bareshaft flight...

Or. .

just add feathers to a reasonable set up and  

" Voila "    better arrow flight !  

There is a reason that there are feathers on the back side of an arrow.  Not certain what that is. .  hmm let me think.
ChuckC

[Stone Knife]

I just tune my carbons so they hit were I'm looking with the broadhead of my choosing. I'm not sure what the the heck EFOC is.

[jonsimoneau]

Yea, guys...I'm going to keep messing with it.  Might find something I like.  I get pretty bored when it is not deer season!

[Ground Hunter]

Just make the pointy end hit first.  H

[daveycrockett]

Originally posted by Ground Hunter:
Just make the pointy end hit first.  H

       

[Ray Hammond]

[Sam McMichael]

I guess I'm just a simpleton. I shoot my woodies pretty much "vanilla". Plain parallel shaft and a two blde Magnus BH. They shoot better than I can hold. However, I shot with Richie Nell at our state shoot (War Eagle, brother), and those big, heavy telephone poles coming off his bow went straight and hit hard.

Now, it has me screwd up a little bit, as I am beginning to develope an interest in more FOC. Other than heavier arrows with a heavier point, are there other woddy-relate tricks to know about?

[Sam McMichael]

Oops, I meant to ask if there are other woody-related tricks to know about. I never said I could type!

[Ray Hammond]

Jon,

I've been shooting carbons like this for a long time- in fact, since the poltruded shaft days.

Not because I started out wanting a lot of weight up front- but I was tired of " one shot and you throw away" a wood or aluminum arrow.

So I tested carbons. Hogs are tough on shafts- and I wanted something they might not be able to break. Carbons were great for that, but lacked enough weight...it was like dry-firing my bow with the typical 125/145 grain broadhead set up.

So I started buying really stiff carbons- because the stiffer the shaft the more it weighed- and had to leave them full length and keep adding weight to the tip until it flew right.

Never cut carbon arrows unless they are too weak, cause that's the only way to stiffen them other than taking off weight at the front.

That's why I buy the stiffest shafts I can get, and start bringing the stiffness down with point weight.

I just shoot the pigs, wash the blood off, resharpen, and put them back in my quiver. Don't misunderstand- they still get broken sometimes, but it was a certainty with wood or aluminum- my record is nine pigs with one shaft...that's cost effectiveness there!

I learned a long time ago that successful bowhunting is the elimination of all mistakes- one way to make things less complicated is to shoot one bow for everything, and the same arrow setup.  Switching bow weight/arrow combinations to suit a particular type of game is fraught with issues about relearning the path of the arrow, etc which I personally find difficult, so for that and perhaps a few other reasons I shoot the same bow weight and arrow set up whether I am squirrel hunting or moose hunting...and its worked out pretty good for me so far.