Bow Poundage & Draw Length

[daveb413]

Good day all, this is my first post since joining. I'm just at the VERY begining of getting involved in & interested in traditional archery. I bought a Martin Jaguar 50#@28 about 2 months ago but it was a bit too much poundage to keep my form right (thankfully I have a friend who is knowledgable and is helping me get situated) and I didn't really like the style of it (It has been returned and I'm on the hunt for a new (to me) bow more in the 40# draw weight arena. I did some searching on the subject but didn't find a whole lot that dealt with the two questions below specifically. Feel free if you know of a link to another topic that has already addressed this to aim me in the right direction.

1. Is there a standard pound per inch past 28 that is generally agreed upon (like 1 inch past = 2 additional pounds, 2 inch past = 5 additional pounds) or is every bow different?

2. Is your "draw length" as simple as pulling out a measuring tape and measuring from the riser to your anchor point?

Thanks all, looking forward to learning a great deal here    .

[COLongbow]

I'll let other guys who know way more than me answer you questions, but I just want to welcome you to Tradgang and traditional archery! Best place by far on the internet to be.

Enjoy the ride!

[**DONOTDELETE**]

1> 1" = 3# that's about the same on every bow
2> from the backside of the bow to anchor (grove of nock) is draw length add about 1" to that for arrow length.

Start with a lighter bow to get your form and when you can you can go up in draw weight

[Grant Young]

In most bows 5% per inch beyond 28" is a pretty good guessing point but some designs can gain pretty radically past 28" and may jump way up for every inch beyond 29 or 30. If you really want to be precise draw a marked arrow to the bow you are considering and weigh that bow for that length.  GY

[BobW]

weight gain will be "all over the map", but a good rule of thumb has been given to you (2-3#/inch).  Careful as you go real far back (past 29-30, as many bows will begin to "stack", and become real heavy.  You are best to keep talking with folks around here as to what you may expect from a specific bow and your draw.  Likely someone has had one.  The other thing is to have the bow scaled at your draw by whomever has it.

Good advice given here so far - have fun, and welcome to the gang!

[eric-thor]

this is my suestionand in the begining i didnt agree with this theory : start out with a long and very light bow 20-30 lb at your grawstart with full leingth arrows and just work on form ...id highly sugest buying Masters of the barebow III . and watch it like a crack head and try the thing they so wonderfully teach. and just shoot blank/blind bail for as long as it takes to feel comfortable with that bow inn you hand. than try some short aiming and refing your equiptment tuneing from there . good luck and welcome to the greatest sport in the world. drop me a pm if you need any help or sugestions .  

[Mike Vines]

I am sugesting that you find the bow you want to eventually work up to, and buy it.  This way your not dropping over a grand ($$$) on a starter bow, then a grown up bow.  It will motivate you to get out and exercise the muscles needed to shoot the bow with skill and confidence.  Myself, I bought a Hill bow that was more than I was comfortable with, and after consistant muscle building exercise I'm ver confident in my abilities.

[Friend]

daveb413

Welcome to Trad Gang. As you will see, there are an extremely wide variety of opinions regarding numerous subjects. Most opinions are correct for that individual.

Although we have vastly different opinions, different individual needs and different experiences we are still one family.

Best of luck on your new journey.

[Dean Lintz]

As for draw length I use a wooden sprinng clip clothes pin put it on arrow shaft little shorter than your draw. Draw the bow to anchor let down measure from bottom of knock grove to close pin that should give you your draw length.

[chopx2]

Clothes pin...why didn't I think of that! (probably because i don't own any...lol)

[Stinger]

Dave,  When Mysticguido says back of the bow he means the furthest side away from you when you are holding it - the part your fingers are wrapped around, not the part of the riser facing you.  Dean's suggestion on using a clothes pin is a good one.  Do it more than once trying to position your arms and anchor the same each time.  Many people just starting out will tend to overdraw and stretch this out when they first try it.  It might be helpful to have someone observe you to see if your form is the same each time.

[daveb413]

Thank you so much everyone, good info.

[TexasStick81]

Glad you made it Dave, now we just have to get Bill on here

[bowslinger]

DaveB413,

Before you decide what your draw length is, make sure you are familiar with Terry's form clock, which you can find at the top of the Shooter's Forum here at Trad Gang.  While there are certainly generalities about height, arm length and draw length, there are many arm and shoulder geometries that may affect your actual draw length.  I had to get past using the corner of my mouth as an anchor.

When I stood in front of a mirror or videotaped myself, I was constantly short drawing the bow.  My right elbow was pointing slightly out and away from my body.  When I drew hard enough using my back muscles to align my draw arm elbow straight back, while standing up straight, my anchor point was now about 0.5 to 0.75 inches further back, behind the corner of my mouth.

Now I draw back to the corner of my mouth, then continue past it.  My first thumb knuckle hits my jaw bone and I let go.  You may have already developed good form before choosing your draw length.  It will save you a lot of trial and error later when you are trying to tune arrows.  Nothing says darn, like trying to tune arrows, then finding out you've been short drawing!

As for a bow, shoot as many as you can.  Look for traditional archery clubs and tournaments.  Most trad archers are more than happy to let you try shooting their bows.  Looks, feel, grip, hand shock, are all subjective at some point.  If nothing else, you will have more confidence in choosing a bow.


You may thank us now, but a few years from now and several bows later, you may curse us for the addiction!  Welcome to Trad Gang and to the "trad side"!

[cahaba]

I use the clothespin method also. Check your draw length with a very low poundage bow so your form will be right. Try and get someone who is knowledgable abot trad archery to watch you and help tweek your form to proper alignment. Drawing a heavy bow can shorten your draw length due to improper form. I would buy a bow around 45# at your draw so you can use it to hunt with. There are always some great used bows in the classified ads. When the 45# gets to easy you will have an excuse to buy another! Great advise from the others.Welcome to Tradgang!