I also like epoxy.I'm just not very good with the hot melt and have to reheat often.The epoxy can be heated if you ever have to remove it.Most 5 minute epoxies are not as strong.It is a good idea to clean the point ferrule with a Q Tip and acetone to make sure there is no factory oil there.I often take a few seconds and scratch up the inserts and ferrules with some sandpaper,just for extra insurance.
It probably doesn't affect flight,but I like to align all mine the same.At least it gives the same sight picture and for me,that is horizantal.I line them up before glue and mark the end of the shaft with a fine point marker.
It is very important that the point spins true and it is worth the time making a spinning jig.I had some rollers that came with a cutoff saw,so mine is kind of fancy but it doesn't have to be.You can make 2 "V" blocks of wood or metal an just have a flat vertical surface in front of the point.I establish an alignment point by using a straight shaft and a field point that I know is true.I have masking tape on my tip alignment surface and poke the field point tip into that.I darken that dot with a pen so I can see it weel.
Lay the arrow on the spinner before the epoxy sets,with the blade vertical.Look down on it and make sure the tip is perfectly aligned with the dot.Now turn the shaft 90 degrees,so the blade is now horizontal,look down and check tip alignment again.
If the tip is aligned from both directions,it is perfect.Set it aside,where the broadhead it not touching anything and let the glue set up.I like to let epoxies set up overnight before shooting.
I used to spin broadheads on their tips to check for alignment but the spinning jig has proven to me that I did a less than perfect job that way.The jig takes the guesswork out of it and actually speeds up the process.
Topic: Adapters for glue in broadhead ??? (Read 542 times)
