Arrow Kicks Tail-Up... Form issue?

[mrpenguin]

Hey Gents and Ladies,

I just want to confirm something... I have struggled to get my wood arrows to shoot a nice smooth arc out to my targets.  My arrows HIT THE MARK, but kick tail high, resolve and fly nicely.  So I have moved my nocking point all over, no help.  I have tried adding a toothpick to the shelf, no help.  My flight was erradic... though I always hit the mark, I would get that kick intermitently.  So I tried adjust my form... I noticed a while back that my shoulder on my bow arm raises when I draw.  When I lower it (straighten it out with my body really) that kick seems to disappear.  I think the shoulder going up cause heel pressure on my hand and I am seeing the result of the arrow bouncing off the shelf... NOT porpoising.  Interestingly, this problem does not happen with alums and rarely with carbons... only wood out of this bow.  BUT when I get it right, I cannot seem to miss (even with the kick the arrow hits the mark...)

What do you guys think??  Am I crazy here or did I figure this right?  Season opens in 5 days and I really wanna shoot these woodies... I love shooting wood arrows, everything about it.

[JRY309]

Maybe try raising your nock point alittle?The wood arrow,isn't it a larger diameter then carbon or aluminum.A larger shaft may lower your nock point alittle giving you the kick.

[xtrema312]

I would say nock height or form like your grip pressure is getting low or you are pulling up to load the bottom limb more and cause the timing to pull the arrow down on the shot.  However, if aluminum doesn't do it and you have worked on the nock height, maybe it is the arrow.

I have had this off and on with carbon.  Never had it with aluminum.  I get it fixed then make a little change to my form, grip, draw length, or arrow set-up and it is back.  It is like everything needs to be just right to get good flight, and any change causes problems.      I am starting to think it is something with the timing of the flexing of the arrow having to be just right.  I am starting to think my arrows are a little weak and vertical flexing too much.  Maybe try and stiffen them up a little if you can change some points or something to see what happens.

[Cyclic-Rivers]

I was having this happen with some shafts.  I turned Cock feather in and they fly better than ever.

I guess it's worth a try doesn't cost much!.

[WESTBROOK]

Yup, try cock feather in, brace height up or down a couple twists. Doesnt happen to be 1 or 2 particular arrows in the batch does it?

Eric

[Jock Whisky]

If all else fails try raising your brace height a bit. I had the same problem and that fixed it.

JW

[sendero25]

Just to add to your confusion...I have a 2006 Bear Kodiak Magnum that no matter what I tried I got a knock high indication.  The only solution was a stick on elevated rest.  Knock high went away right away.
I don't know if the newer Bears are tillered for elevated plunger style rests or not, but it solved the problem..only bow I have with that problem..
Give an elevated rest a try, if it doesn't work, just peel it off, no harm, no foul! LOL
I tried moving nock point up and down for days, different arrows, even different shooters to eliminate form issues, still knock high until I stuck the elevated rest on! Poblem solved.
Good luck.
John

[xtrema312]

I have had problems with arrow nocks slipping down the string.  Will your nock slide up an down the string and do you have two nock sets?

[butler]

Had a similar problem with a longbow, like some of the others have already mentioned, raising the brace hieght a couple twists ended it for me.

[bamboo]

heeling a mid or high wrist grip can give it a kick---but also check your nock fit --too tight can give the arrow a kick too

[MnFn]

Did you solve your problem? I was just wondering if a too much pressure on the string with your bottom finger might be causing it?

[Dave Bulla]

A short video showing you shoot from the side and from behind kinda over the shoulder would help a lot.

There are quite simply, too many possibilities to armchair quarterback this type of problem accurately.  I'll run some questions by you, try to answer as best as you can.

You said you moved your nock around.  How much? Do you have a bow square or are you just eyeballing it?  Most all my bows shoot best with the nock set between 1/2" and 3/4" above the shelf and nocking the arrow under the nock set.

Someone asked if it was all your arrows or just a few of them.  That's a great question.  Wood arrows need to be straightened and sometimes you get spine variations within a group.  I'd number them and pay attention to which ones do it.  You can also spin test them to check for wobble.

We also need to know what kind of bow you are shooting and what is the draw weight marked on it, YOUR draw length, arrow length from nock groove to back of point, arrow spine and point weight.  Brace height too.

Does it happen with field points or only broadheads?

Can you get someone to watch you shoot?  Have them pay attention to how much arrow you have hanging off the front of the bow at full draw, how well your draw arm elbow is in line with your arrow and bow arm and if there is any visible bending of the arrow when you are at full draw.  Might be pinching the nock.

Do you hear any click or slap sound when you shoot?  i.e.  Is the nock hitting the shelf and making noise when you get the arrow kick?