Losing the wiggle

[Hookeye]

Slight left wiggle to GT 35/55's. Bow is 50# at 28", Trad Tech Pinnacle 2. I added 50 grains to insert but think this has me a little underspined.

Stinger BH's hit a tad right, like 2" at 18 yards or so, if I don't do everything perfect.

Arrow setup doesn't seem forgiving.

Do I back the bow down to 46# and run it that way, or build up some 55/75's?

I know I can buld up some of those for 55# bows, done it, worked great.

This 50# thing has me right between the two sizes. I could use nock adapters and stiffen the 35/55's but then my FOC would drop.

I think it better to go the 55/75 route and if need be add more weight up front, really jacking the FOC up there (normal with 50gr added would be 17%- so I'd have to add maybe another 50 grains).

Note: the bow is closer to centershot now due to removing two layers of riser lam (thinned, deepened and lifted grip throat too, and took off other offending stuff as well).

No arm slap (previous thread), shot 50-60 arrows today, with long sleeve T on, no hits on that either (no arm guard). Bow is braced at 8 3/4". No porpoise with FP or BH.

Just have a slight left wiggle up close, causing BH's to impact right of FPs with a good but not perfect release.

Trying to clean up flight a bit,make it forgiving. Quiver is on bow now, didn't seem to do anything bad, is a GN strap on and is pretty light. Prefer heavier Delta style, but will run this as is for now. Bow has some thump to it but not really shocky, tolerable, but no Blackwidow.

[vtmtnman]

Tony,sounds like you're slightly underspined. You could either build out the strike plate or drop your poundage some.It's up to you if you want to change arrows this late in the game.

[Eugene Slagle]

I agree with vtmtnman & build out the strike plate a little and/or tweak the Brace Height lower to accomodate this.

My bows are in my sig line & my arrows are:
Gold Tip Trad 35/55 full length.
Standard insert w/ 10gr. extra weight.
Footed w/ 1" piece of 2117 = 12gr.
125gr. point & broadheads.
5" Parabolic feathers straight off set.

Hope this info helps.

[ishoot4thrills]

Originally posted by Eugene Slagle:
I agree with vtmtnman & build out the strike plate a little and/or tweak the Brace Height lower to accomodate this.

My bows are in my sig line & my arrows are:
Gold Tip Trad 35/55 full length.
Standard insert w/ 10gr. extra weight.
Footed w/ 1" piece of 2117 = 12gr.
125gr. point & broadheads.
5" Parabolic feathers straight off set.

Hope this info helps.

What he said.      

[Friend]

Not familiar with the Trad Tech Pinnacle 2 brace ht recommnedions. Appears you have plenty of brace ht to consider reducing to stiffen your arrow. I have on more than one occassion had my bareshaft and fletched shafts seemingly dead-on at 20 yards and my large snuffers hitting 3-4"s right. I reduced the brace ht ~1/8" then all three impacted the same at 20 yards. Doesn't seem it takes much brace ht adjustment to noticeably effect BH flight.

Note: We can only tune as well as we can shoot.

[Hookeye]

Thanks guys. I figured my last mod, bringing it to more centershot, is what has these acting soft now.

Changing arrows doesn't bother me...........working 2nd shift and getting up early to go make them at a bud's shop does!

Brace height was right around this mark from the beginning, did have some string stretch and dropped it a tad. Not bad but a slight increase in vibe, so twisted it up just enough to smooth it out.

Shot the 35/55's from it fine, even bare shaft, but that was before I moved things inward with a Dremel........one last time.

Now for the record, I am done grinding on this bow, really. It is where I wanted to set it from the beginning. Right/wrong/whatever, it is staying as is from now on........the urge to make sawdust has been satiated.

[Hookeye]

I dropped the # to 48 and it helped a little. 46# was much better but still had some (not perfect), arrows are flying slower though (compared to 50#).

The 35/55's still have the 50 gr added weight to insert.

I might pull them but don't know if 50 grains less will get me "there". I suppose one arrow could be stripped of fletch, weight removed, go with bare shafting and test with fletched ones at an indoor range tomorrow.

No bag target at home, or I'd rig up a paper test rack.

Still think I should try some 55/75's with weights added.

46# on deer seems light, I know, I've read the threads, but still prefer more zip. Just what i want. Think 55/75's with bow at 52# might be the end result.

Must admit, 46# is pretty comfy.

Can I just yank the brass weight of 50 grains and get it to be perfect? From what experimenting I did a long time ago, seems changed to my old GT's required 50 gr intervals.

[kennym]

I don't like complete centershot, I want my arrows forced to all bend a little the same direction.

I agree with the guys who said build the side plate out a bit, a paper match behind it might do the trick,or if you have an elevated rest, adjust it out a fuzz.

Fun,ain't it!!  

[Hookeye]

I used a slightly thicker sideplate rug type of rest so the bow is not set for exact centershot.

I never shoot them perfectly centered, but man these dudes were pointing pretty far out in stock riser config. FWIW I like mine with the point just away,not completely visible (field point) when looking from behind, want part of it obscured by string.

[Hookeye]

All is good now. Had to remove the 50 gr insert weights. Arrows now lighter than I like, same for bow's poundage. But, they are shooting great (nice holes in paper tune testing).

So now I wonder, if I can shorten my arrows a bit, say 1 inch (in old age I seem to have my draw compressed )......how much will that allow me to increase poundage?

I'm at 46 and the thing is shooting like a laser, no kidding, wicked good. But I am not comfortable with the #.

Might be the perfect target rig as is, but I'd like more oomph on critters.

Not gonna mess with things for a while though. Just wondering if anybody has a kinda sorta increment deal figured out.

[buckster]

If they are flying good I wouldn't mess with shortning them, especially since you had to remove the heavier inserts.  The overhand doesnt hurt anything & gives you some extra weight/penetration.