vice for wood arrows

[bowgy]

what do you use to hold wood arrows when gluing on points?  I always hold the arrow between my knees, the torch in one hand, the glue in the other, pliers in my third hand something between my teeth.  I don't want to dent or scratch the arrow in a regular vice.  I'm thinking there must be an easier way.

[Mike Vines]

I use a torch that can stand up.  When I squeeze the trigger it lights, and when I let go it shuts off.  Torch was bought at Home Depot, and is common for plumbing repairs.  I heat up my glue, and then apply the glue to the arrow.  Once all of the arrows have glue on them, I move onto my points.  I grab the point with pliers then heat it up, and then grab the arrow and insert it into the point/broadhead.  Once I have the point where I want it (still holding with pliers, I dunk it in a bucket of water to cool the head, and allow it to stay on.  Do a spin test, and if need be, reheat to adjust the point alignment.  There you go, and with only 2 hands.

[Bjorn]

I do the same as Grapes and keep the torch on till I'm done, all with just two hands.

[snag]

Same here, except I've moved away from dunking the tips in a cup of water. I wet a bunch of paper towels and then lay the tips on it. I've found that if after doing a spin test that if I need to I can still take the pliers and move the tip a little this way. Then I'll dip it in water.

[Grey Taylor]

That's part of why I went to epoxy for tips. I no longer feel the need for an extra pair of hands and a tail to keep everything working.

Guy

[snag]

I can see the epoxy if you weren't going to change from field tips to broadheads and back again.  It's not all that hard Guy..haha   I use a propane torch that I can let stand there and provide the flame. Then I have both hands free. I can take the pliers with the field tip or broadhead and heat it up and put it one the arrow shaft.  I have a heat pot with the hot melt wax in it. So I just dip the shaft tip in it and get the amount of wax I'll need. Then apply the heated field tip or broadhead to it.

[Grey Taylor]

The only drawback I have found with epoxy is the curing time. I can handle the field point or broadhead with my fingers rather than a pair of pliers, I don't have any flame to worry about, nor molten glue dripping or that must be cleaned off the tip. It's not necessary to re-heat the tip to get it straight or cool it once it's on well.
As for changing the tips, I've done it lots of times. Heat breaks the epoxy bond just like it does on hot melt.

Guy

[Killdeer]

I like working in the kitchen. The sink is on the left, on the counter in front of me is a spinner, and to the right is the gas burner of the stove.

No sweat.
Killdeer  

[pronghorn23]

I use an electric melting pot to melt glue sticks. Then I spread the glue on the shaft. The glue will start to harden so I'll use one of those propane grill lighters or a candle to heat it back up or will heat the metal point over the candle then slide it on the point, melting the glue as it goes on.

[LookMomNoSights]

All the torching and heating and hot pots .... I never hear anyone say they use Duco cement for points!?  Maybe Im doing something wrong ....but Ive been using it for a bit now and dont plan to stop!  Dont need heat,  can line up my points without it drying too fast,  when points are positioned it doesnt take too long to dry and if you want to switch them out,  like Guys says ....broken with a little heat.  I have target points on arrows that have endured hundreds of shots and then some,  without losing points....and thats into mostly bag targets.  LOVE DUCO,  USE IT FOR EVERYTHING!

[Fletcher]

Try one of the camp stove type propane bottles with your torch.  The squat bottle sits very stable.  I keep the flame pretty low, about 1/2 or 3/4" of blue.  Broadheads I will usually install with an alcohol burner.  Propane can overheat a broadhead pretty fast.

[JamesV]

I use epoxy now, lots easier and I never have a head come off in my practice bale

[longarrow]

I just use cheap old super glue, I get from w....world, 4 tubes for a $1.00 Little heat from a Bic' will bring the tip right off!

[Orion]

I use an alcohol lamp to warm the glue.  Slather a little on the arrow tip, push on the point part way and heat it.  Then I push the arrow with attached point into the edge of my table (cheap table) to seat the head.  Spin it and if everything is true, set it aside.  If not, reheat a little to adjust.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

I just use a candle and heat the glue stick, rub a little on the tip (wood) then hold the arrow over the flame till it bubbles turning it to get it all melted then push on my point. spin it to check trueness, Then set it aside to cure/cool.

[sweeney3]

I stand over the stove and use the gas burner.  Shaft in left hand, glue stick in right, point/head lying on the grate near but not over the flame, and pliers lying close by on the stovetop.  Heat the glue, roll it over the taper, keep the taper several inches above the flame to while you grab the point/head with the pliers and finish heating it up.  Then stick the point/head on the shaft and get it set good.  Spin test it right on top of the stove.  Works like a charm.  

In a field environment, either a Coleman stove on the tailgate or a standup burner.  Sometimes a campfire.  In that case it's kind of non-standardized and just whatever works at the time.

[reddogge]

I use a homemade alcohol burner that sits on the workbench leaving my two hands free to manuever the hotmelt, shaft and point.  I use a homemade point alignment jig to align the points.  Test, heat, push the arrow and point sideways on the bench and eventually they will line up.