Help w tapered cedar selection

[Mark Normand]

Gang I need some help here.

Been a member here since almost the beginning. Made many a doz of good shootin tapered cedars some years back. Very rusty now, LOL.

I had a number of bows in the 55 range and therefore used that range of 55-57spine cedars from the old RRA outfit. Still have a bunch.

I'm now shooting a Samick Sage TD 40# @ 28" just to keep my nagging shoulder in shape. I'd like to hunt deer with it, but am getting pretty good arrow slap on the shelf, using my 55 shafts @ 29.5" nock valley to BOP. Got the shelf cushioned well, nock point set right, etc. Lets assume the bow is good to go.

I want to try a set of tapered cedars better matched to this bow. What would be a better selection for tapered ... 11/32, or 23/64 in the 40-45 spine? Assume a two blade Magnus 125gr broadhead or field point.

I really like the bow, it shoots well, got it set up with Terry's bow hush and puffs. If I can match the shafts better, and not spend a fortune, its good to go.

Get me dialed in pls, thx!

[Mike Most]

If it was mine I would be going with the 11/32 tapered to 5/16.

Good Luck

Mike

[Orion]

Yep.  I'd go with the 11/32 tapered to 5/16 as well.  Of course, at that spine range, you could also go with parallel 5/16 shafts. I've shot tapered and parallel shafts for a lot of years and there really isn't a lot of difference between them.  Good, straight grained shafts, well tuned to the bow will shoot well whether tapered or not.  Good luck.

[Bjorn]

Weaker shafting is one answer........If you go to Pete Wards site there is a review of the Samick Sage-pretty good bow.
A 55# arrow in 29.5 should not be far off with a little more weight up front-maybe 160 gn.
Your shafting maybe a lot stiffer than 55-57# do you have a spine tester?
I agree with the 11/32 tapered to 5/16, but maybe not the weaker spine, at least not yet. Is your cushion plunger backed all the way off?

[cacciatore]

About your old arrow I think changing weight on the front is enough to cure the problem.As Bjorn saied a 160 grs point weaks the shaft of 2 spine getting close to 45-50# giving you more penetration on hunting situations.
I third the 11/32 to 5/16 for newer shafts.

[Mark Normand]

Bjorn....this bow has the hole for the plunger mount, but I don't have a plunger, shooting off the shelf on soft fuzzy velcro padding with a toothpick under it.  No spine tester here.

Ok, lots of votes on the 11/32, my thoughts too. Don't really want to add more weight, at 40#, I need all the speed I can get, LOL, so lighter is better.

I've got a large assortment of 55-57gr tapereds, a few of them fly really well, it happens those have my own harvested turkey feather fletchings. If they didn't slap, man they would be perfect killing mojo arrows. They just have that feel, you know? I'm going to use them until I can solve this.

I'll call Wapiti later to discuss 11/32 arrows.

[PEARL DRUMS]

I know we hear about tapered being more forgiving and easier to shoot. But I have a tendency to miss that? I have 2 parallel and 2 tapered shafts within 5 grains of each other and 2#. The parallel fly better for me? Sorry for the rambling......anywho I would go with 11/32 40-45, or get a test kit, they can save alot of headaches and $$$$$. Try twisting your string shorter a little at a time, that will solve some stiff spine issues as well.